I don’t like training collars, except the gentle leader, because not only do most rely on compulsion and punishment they are rarely used for “training” like they were intended or as their name implies.

A training collar if utilized should be just that; only used to train or teach a dog something.

BUT, how many times do you see a 4 or 9 year old dog still using a prong collar?

One of the biggest problems is that dog owners have been taught to utilize these collars but instead of just teaching their dogs, they rely on these products constantly to get their dogs to comply with certain behaviors.  AND, the dog knows when the collar is and is not on!

Even though many of these people have been taught by a dog trainer HOW to use these items they are never taught how to wean their dog off of them or how to teach them a different way!

Did I mention I don’t like these collars?  I want to make SURE that everyone knows I NEVER recommend them!  After all, we are a “hands off” dog training system and nothing is more “hands on” than choke chains and prong collars!  So don’t send hate mail!!

Even though this is Disguised it is still a Prong Collar

But, I acknowledge that lots of people use them.  And, since you are most likely alone in your home reading this, you can admit to yourself that you just might be one of them!  I bet a very large percentage of my readers are currently using these products simply because they don’t know what else to do and their dogs are desensitized to anything else!

I use to not allow the dogs in my classes to wear any training collar except a Gentle Leader, then one day I drove past one of my clients who’s dog was sporting a prong collar.  It was a small community so I pulled over to inquire what was going on.  She was horrified and embarrassed but admitted she didn’t know how else to get her dog to listen.  She didn’t want to publicly admit she used the collar in my class and knew I wouldn’t allow it, so she just did her weekly homework with her dog in his usual prong collar.

It was at this moment I realized sometimes the only way I can truly help people change is by teaching them to wean themselves off these compulsion methods they think they need.  Whereas I never wanted her to use the collar again, I had to teach her how not to need it.  The last thing I wanted was for people to be too ashamed to ask for real help, or to go home and yank and pull their dogs into submission.

So it was then I came up with my program.  I promise my clients I can teach them how to never use a prong or choke chain again, and if I can do that for them they give me the collar they once used.  It is an exchange of knowledge and positive reinforcement for the negative compulsion collar and the methods.

Why Do People Use Them?

Because they are easy!

Unfortunately, it doesn’t take a lot of time and training to put on a prong collar and see a difference in a pulling dog.

And, unlike the Gentle Leader and other like head halters most dogs don’t throw a huge temper tantrum when these collars are put on.  Most dogs don’t even whimper or cry, but immediately they recognize that pulling is uncomfortable and not pulling makes the discomfort disappear.

Why Do Trainers Recommend Them?

Puppies and Young Dogs should NEVER need a choke chain or training collar!

Because they are LAZY!  Make no excuses!  There are better ways to teach your dog to respect his leash or not pull, but these methods take brain power, work, timing, and consistency.

Part of me wouldn’t be as irritated if these trainers at least taught their students how to quit using these tools, but again this would take time, work, and consistency.

Almost nothing is as nauseating to me as seeing a big, geriatric dog that has to deal with the pain and irritation of lugging around a pinch collar!

Don’t Judge or Blame!

I know this is a hard one, but most owners don’t want to inflict pain or hurt their dogs despite the ugliness of the collar most people hardly use it.

While it is true that in my career I have seen some truly malicious and cruel “corrections” given to dogs in prong collars, most owners have no desire to be barbaric.  And, those sadistic owners can usually not be reasoned with or educated.  I have to hope that someday they will be caught and prosecuted for their abuse.

Most people just get stuck in a rut or the collar was effective on their “last dog” so they default to using one on this dog.

Some people think that “certain breeds” require these types of collars but I disagree!  Dogs should be trained with your MIND not your body!  How do people think dogs respond to clients in wheelchairs? Rottweiler, Mastiff, Weimaraner, Chihuahua or Shih Tzu it is all the same to me!

How to Make a Change?

Most of these owners would like to change.  No one wants the looks or snippy comments when they see a prong collar but most people don’t know how to change.  You may want to utilize a buckle collar, but you don’t want your arm dislocated or broken on your next walk either!  Don’t laugh it happens!

This is what My Dogs Live for!

First

You must teach your dog the “Game” of positive reinforcement!  You have to teach your dog that he is in control of his environment, to some degree, you control what he has to do to get the reward but he feels like he is in control.

You need to build a foundation of fun and games.  Up until now you have been controlling your dog physically and a pinch collar cannot compare to a buckle collar when it comes to control, so you must teach your dog that there is a reason to listen to you and do what you want.

Don’t over use treats, but learn how to use them !

If your dog likes toys and playing with balls or chasing things and hunting, teach him to work using his normal doggy play drive.

This type of training does take a bit longer, but the foundation is so much more stable than regular compulsion.  I never have to worry about forgetting my dog’s collar because they have been taught not to pull in order to be rewarded with the things they want and their necks are not desensitized.

Dogs that rely on compulsion have become a bit desensitized around their neck.  What would get the attention of a normal dog or puppy no longer phases a dog use to a prong collar.  This makes using a leash and normal buckle collar almost impossible.  Your relationship is based on corrections and physical control.

So teaching your dog the foundation to positive reinforcement, how to play with you and giving him reasons to listen are crucial!  Also, taking toys, treats, and games with you when you take your dog out will also be vital for a time.

Next

The next is to slowly wean yourself and your dog from his training collar.  I would rather tell you to throw the collar away and start over, and in my opinion that would be the best way.  But, I realize that most of you won’t do that since it would take too long and you don ‘t know where to start.  So, I will tell you to do the next best thing.

Like a smoker who promises to quit, make a pact with your dog and pick out a date that you will throw the collar away or at least never use it again and then start to work toward your goal.

Some of the Tricks I Have Used Over the Years?

Dogs are great about associating objects that are totally unrelated.  For some dogs if you pair the old collar with a certain bandana for a period of time the dog will start to associate the bandana with the collar, enabling you to trick your dog into thinking the collar is on later, once you have stopped using it.  You can simply apply the bandana and the dog will undoubtedly stop pulling.

Next get a leash with two clips, or using a long leash feed a round key chain or “O” ring around the handle of your leash and feed onto the ring a clip.  This double clip allows you to clip one to his buckle collar and one to his former training collar.

This will help you to teach him what his normal buckle collar feels like when there is pressure on it and how to learn to respect it.  He needs to learn what is normal and not rely on the pinch or strangulation he is use to!  This does not mean to use the buckle collar to issue “corrections” you should be motivating him not correcting him!

The key is to do your very best to not use the training collar anymore!  If you are going to get drug into traffic or your dog is going to pull you down you still have the option of using the collar you are use to, but don’t use it as a constant crutch!

You should have a tool belt full of treats, toys and fun so your dog should be motivated to pay attention to you versus his normal boredom and pulling to fulfill his own needs.  You should now be the focus of his awareness!

If you are willing to put in some time, get animated, have some fun together and make a pact with your dog I think you will be much happier with the results and the lack of stares and comments and I KNOW your dog will be happier!

Weaning Yourself and Your Dog from Compulsion Dog Training Collars is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Is Your Dog Unwilling to Share?

A lot of people have dogs that don’t like to share with the other dogs in the household.  Do you have a bully at home?

I think being possessive, resource guarding, or just generally not wanting to share is pretty inherent both with animals and with people.  How often do kids get in trouble for not sharing?

Hoarding, guarding and being possessive of food items can mean the difference between life and death in the wild.  The problem is our dogs aren’t living in the wild.  But, they still may be resistant to the idea of sharing what they consider a high value item.

The first thing to do is to assess how adamant they are about keeping the item away from your other dogs and how aggressive they are willing to be to keep the item.

As always, I am a safety first kinda girl; if someone is going to die or get seriously injured this matter becomes so much more serious and has to be dealt with, with safety in mind.  So let’s discuss highly aggressive dogs first.

Seriously Aggressive Dogs

The first thing to consider is your comfort level.  Although ignoring the problem isn’t going to work in the long run, I certainly wouldn’t recommend giving them a pig’s ear or something equally yummy to assess the situation!

Aggressive dogs need to go on a leash and a gentle leader to give you better control and keep a fight or a bite from happening.  Being off leash is a privilege and if a dog is showing aggression he loses that right!

Next is to introduce a low level toy or treat.  Low level means the lowest level possible to illicit the smallest response.  A toy that the dog barely cares about or a mediocre treat; again do not give a high level treat like a pig’s ear, real baked cow bone, or your dog’s favorite toy this might start severe aggression or a fight.

Dogs that are seriously food aggressive when they are fed, should be fed in their crates to alleviate the problem and keep dogs from fighting.  Sometimes the introduction of the crate makes the aggressor feel safer and therefore lessens his aggressiveness.  In a crate, he knows he does not have to defend his food!

Some dogs are so aggressive they cannot be trusted with great chewies or treats when other dogs are around because they become dangerous; these dogs may need to be put in a kennel or outside alone with their prize.  Occasionally a program of desensitization with them wearing a muzzle (to keep everyone safe) can help.

Only you know your dog, do not push him past his limits into a dangerous zone a veterinary visit to have dogs stitched up after a fight simply isn’t worth it.

And, never try this if your dog is also showing possession aggression or resource guards toward you.  There are easier ways to teach your dog to share with you that limit your chances of being bitten!  A visit to the hospital is also not worth it!

Mildly Aggressive Dogs

Yikes!!!

I stand by the fact that any dog showing aggression should be placed on at least a leash but in most cases also a gentle leader.  Again this just gives you control.  Instead of worrying about a bloodletting like you would with a seriously aggressive resource guarder, a leash still allows you to pluck the dog up and get him out of the situation.

I don’t allow aggression at my house.  My dogs are barely allowed to stiffen their body postures to each other and give each other the stink eye when they have something they don’t want to share.  No growling, snarling, snapping, or biting is allowed.

The ONLY exception to this rule is if I get an “oh so confident” puppy that is pushing his limits with the older dogs that he should be respecting.  In this case I would put the puppy on a leash and teach him some manners by not allowing him to try and steal from his older step-siblings.

At the first sign of any naughtiness or resource guarding I take the offender by the leash and lead him into another room for a brief time out.  If he is adamant about defending his article, he may lose the privilege of having it at all!

He may be crated or put outside alone, but I would not push his buttons by taking the item away and then making him endure watching the other dogs eat their prize.  Likewise I would never take his treat and give it to another; this only proves his point that he needs to guard his things and is liable to make his aggression worse!

Essentially what the dog wants is the “chewy” and so be revoking the privilege of having it for showing signs of resource guarding he learns it is unacceptable to guard items.

The Hoarder

All of my dogs learn to play “musical bones” where one dog tricks another dog to drop his “more appealing” bone and then snatches it away; this is normal.  It seems my dogs always want ONE bone; ultimately not the one that they have but the one that someone else is totally engrossed in and enjoying.

I have often giggled to myself as I watch my oldest dog Nix trick the others by sending up the emergency flag and barking like someone is at the door.  When the other dogs drop their bones and go racing to the front door, Nix is able to pick the bone he prefers.  Time after time the younger ones fall for the same trick!

But, I do not allow one dog to hoard the other bones, they may evenly exchange them around amongst themselves but I don’t accept hoarding.  Some dogs like to gather all of the bones and lay on some while chewing on one.  This is not tolerable!  (Again do not get bit if your dog is showing aggression toward you there are other safer ways, do not push an aggressive dog).  I take the hoarders bones away and redistribute.

I also draw a line with the hoarder that waits until everyone else has consumed their treat and then runs around growling and flaunting the fact that they still have theirs.  This hoarder will lose his bone all together if he shows this behavior, because what he desires is confrontation not the joy of chewing!

You wouldn’t allow your child to hoard all the toys and never share, or threaten other children if they came near… why would you accept this nastiness from your dog?

A Trick to Keep the Crowd Happy?

Arguing is NOT Acceptable!

I always distribute at least one more treat than there are dogs.  I have 3 dogs, so when I dole out rawhides I let each dog pick (from my doggy ruler down the line) and then I put out one more.  This helps with resource guarding because if someone steals someone else’s bone they don’t have to get close to or in the other dog’s face to get back a bone because there is always one laying around.  The other beauty of this model is that the most voracious chewer usually ends up with this bone when the others have had their fill so no one else really wants it!

When the resource is plentiful there is less of a chance your dogs will fight over it!

Dog allow your dog to be a bully!  It is not fair to your other dogs to have to feel like they live on pins and needles.  Aggression is never okay!  None of us wants to be bullied and I bet after a few sessions of losing the prize your dog will learn to control his impulses and resource guarding will be a thing of the past!

That’s MINE! Refusing to Share with the Other Dogs in your Pack is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Don't Allow Your Dog to be a Bully!

I have had a few questions lately from people who need help because one of their dogs does not like to share human time with the other dog/dogs in the home!   A lot of us have more than one companion dog or pet in our homes and it is all about finding a good balance between all of us.

I have 3 dogs and never seem to have less than two, which is just the way I like it!  And, sometimes there are some jealousy issues even in my home!

Some people would argue that dogs don’t have emotions much less complex emotions like jealousy, but having spent almost 20 years training animals I can attest to the fact that they have emotions and complex emotions.

Basic emotions                                                  More Complex Emotions

• Joy                                                             Excitement
• Trust                                                          Shame
• Fear                                                            Frustration
• Surprise                                                       Envy
• Sadness                                                        Worry
• Disgust                                                         Curiosity
• Anger                                                            Sorrow
• Anticipation                                                  Pride

Some might say that one dog is the dominant dog and that is why they are resource guarding the person, it has nothing to do with emotion because dogs don’t have the capability of having much less showing emotion, but I have witnessed dogs show all these emotions and many more!

While it is true that some dogs are immediately defensive and possessive of EVERYTHING they have and don’t want to share anything with the other dog/dogs in the house some dogs only get jealous of their owner’s time and affections.

Obviously the dog with universal possessiveness has many more issues and sometimes is just a bully!  He needs the “nothing in life is free” principles applied!

But, the dog that is just possessive of his owner’s and his/her affections may be feeling a bit slighted whether or not it is warranted.

What Can You Do?

• Make sure that everyone is getting alone time
• Make sure that all of your dogs are getting equal time
• Be the parent or the leader and do not accept aggression between your dogs

Alone Time

The Intimidating "Stank Eye" from my Fury!

I believe that no matter who it is in our life that is important to us; sometimes they deserve our undivided attention.

When I was a child my mother and father would split up my sister and I and spend the day one on one with each of us.  We got to decide what we wanted to do with each parent and where we wanted to go.  This one on one attention with each parent helped us to feel special and therefore not slighted when we all spent family time together or if time was lavished on one of us due to an event or special circumstances.  I recommend all parents do this with their children.  Some of my favorite memories came from those days that it was all about ME even though I loved the family time we all spent together.

Likewise I think that marriages and relationships are strengthened when one on one time can occasionally be spent.  Couples need at least monthly date nights and to carve out quality time daily to spend with each other.  This simple principle can help couples feel less stressed and can keep jealousy and other negative emotions at bay.

I believe that our pets are the same way and deserve some one on one time with their owners.

My husband and I are avid hikers.  Most weekends are spent climbing mountains and geocaching with our dogs.  It is great exercise and I am lucky because when I come home my dogs are EXHAUSTED, and that in itself is priceless!  Unfortunately a few weeks ago was my oldest dog’s last hike.  Nix hiked 2 miles before his old body gave out and I sat with him for an hour as my husband finished the hike.  He was simply unable to continue do to his age, and medication from his meningitis.   Now we are forced to only hike with the youngest two, which does break my heart.

Jealousy and sadness could overcome his world if it wasn’t for the fact that I let him do things that my other dogs don’t get to!  He gets to accompany me on car rides and the occasional slow stroll around the yard.  I let the other two outside, while he gets a massage and vice versa.

In an attempt to train toward competition goals, my other dogs get one on one time training with me each day and I make a point to ensure that everyone gets appropriate snuggly time!

I even make sure the cat and our adopted raccoon get one on one time.  Sometimes it feels like I am pulled in all directions, but to keep the peace and ensure happiness for all I believe they all need to feel special.  And, just to be honest I like spending one on one time with them as well, it helps me develop a deeper relationship and get to know them on another level.  Just like a person may be different without their parents, friends, or their spouse, I get to know my pets as individuals with no barriers.  MAKE TIME!

Equal Time

Although most of you wouldn’t admit it, you may have a favorite!  We are told we shouldn’t have favorite children and likewise we think we shouldn’t have favorite dogs within our family structure but some of us do.  I think it is kind of normal and I will admit that my oldest is my heart and soul and he should be; I have spent the last 11 and a half years with him by my side and we have been through many tragedies and triumphs together!

That doesn’t mean I don’t love my young kids, I certainly do!  But, to them spending all of my time or affection on one dog can cause animosity!  Can you imagine your parents spending all their time with one of your siblings?  Even if you didn’t say something, you would feel slighted and probably hostile to the brother or sister even if it wasn’t their fault!

Although very young puppies and very old dogs require a lot more of our concentrated time, do your best to be equal and fair!  I insist that my dogs earn their privileges at my house; you must earn your right to sit with me or get on the furniture but to be fair I have to give my dogs the opportunities to excel and receive my affection, which requires my time!  Although the time I spend with them may be different (I may spoon with my oldest and train with the younger two), it is about quality for where we are in our relationship and I require respect, nothing at my house is free (until you are at least 11)!

This is the Beginning of a Serious Problem!

No Aggression Allowed!

I am the Mom, Alpha, Ruler or Queen of this house depending on what verbiage and semantics you prefer!   I simply won’t allow blatant aggression under my roof towards the humans, children, or other pets in my home.

Blatant aggression means no outright nasty displays.  My female dog who is about a year and a half now is definitely “on top” after me.  She has this “look” I call the “stank eye” that can stop just about anyone or anything in their tracks.  She is easily able to manipulate the other animals by stiffening her naughty little body or by shooting a look across the room.

I recognize and accept these minor behaviors and allow her to “work her magic” with the rest of the pack.  If I did not allow her to exert her demands on the other dogs to some degree it could make things worse for all of us, because she would feel even more helpless if I took all of her control away.  She is a dominant female; there is absolutely no changing that, so I accept it to a tiny extent.

It is important to be able to recognize these changes as they are the beginning of more drama if you are not careful.

Dogs do not need to hackle, growl, snarl, bark or snap.  A simple look and a change in body posture is all it takes to signal to another dog that they want the behavior to stop.  I also do my best to ensure her status as “bitch royale” meaning I don’t allow the other dogs to test her past her bounds.  I respect her by letting her do things first and not allowing the other dogs to steal her things or muscle up on her.  This keeps tensions lower because the other two see that I respect her next.

However, she is NOT allowed to hackle, growl, snarl, bark, snap or bite at the other two dogs.

Aggression = a loss of privilege!

So if she is being possessive of my time and she growls at the puppy or Nix, she loses the ability to spend time with me in that moment and she may just earn a time out.

If she growls, I would take her calmly by the collar or the leash and put her in another room or outside for a few moments by herself.

She is not a child, so leaving her there to “think about what she did” is not going to be effective.  But denying her access to what she wants, which is me, can be quite effective.  A minute or two is enough to suffice, but it must be immediate at the first sign of aggression.

Blatant Aggression in Unacceptable

Do not wait until there is a biting match and expect to split the dogs up.  They should be safely separated at the first and lowest sign of naughty behavior.  If you know that your dog will growl or escalate, I would reprimand and separate at the first sign of “stank eye” or stiffening!  They are much easier to control in the beginning stage of aggression than waiting until there is about to be an altercation!  Fights can also be somewhat satisfying, so it is important to make sure they never get the satisfaction of taking it that far.

When she comes out, I am not going to exploit or fawn over the other dog to make a point.  In fact, I probably won’t have any contact with the other dog and will just let them go back to normal behavior.  Rubbing it in her face will undoubtedly make it worse, but I will also not keep the other dog from me.  She will not be allowed to instigate or cause more drama or again she will lose a privilege.  If I need to, I will keep a leash on her to make sure everyone is safe.

It is important that you be consistent and figure out what you will and what you won’t put up with and then stick to your guns no matter what!  If you accept even a little growl, it is liable to escalate and soon the behavior will be worse.

If your dog cannot sit on your lap without being aggressive and threatening the other pets or people in your life…perhaps he hasn’t earned the right to be on your lap?  Privileges should be earned and sometimes dogs need to stay on the floor until they can grasp this concept.  This is not to say that you can’t have one on one lap time with this dog, but he may not be able to stay there with the other dogs around until he has figured out that you won’t tolerate aggression or possessive behavior!

If you continue to have problems or resistance from him or her, you may need to back up and start doing daily obedience so he is use to listening to you!

Stick to these principles and you will see a change!

AND, don’t argue!  Don’t say you don’t have time to give all of your dog’s one on one time, don’t tell me you don’t have the time to share your time equally while they are around, and DON’T tell me you are unwilling to keep the offender off of your lap or out of your space if he is showing naughty aggressive behavior.

Change has to start with you and you must be willing to take control and do what you need to keep the peace under your roof, or woof !

Help! My Dog Doesn’t Like to Share My Affections with My Other Dogs! is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Possessive behavior is not cute!

Recently I was out dog training with a middle aged couple that had acquired a lovely, but wild Maltese/Terrier mix.  Admittedly she has many problems some of which include aggression towards the toilet (when it flushes) and vacuum and also the possessive guarding of her human “Mother”.

“Mom” is her main care giver.  She gets up in the morning feeds and waters her, takes her for walks, plays with and trains her.  Although there is an adult son that also lives in the home and her human “Dad” they mostly only interact with her when Mom is gone and they NEVER train with her.

She is definitely spoiled and gets almost everything she wants, from everyone.  When she demands that her humans pet her; they do.  When she wants to play ball, she initiates and insists someone throw it for her; non-compliance will be met with barking and an escalation from nipping to hurtful biting.  When she doesn’t want to be picked up, she flashes her teeth and is hastily left alone.  She has to be tricked to enter her crate when it is time for her owners to work.

Mom makes her listen and obey commands most of the time, but gives in to her “cuteness” and has trouble truly enforcing commands, but no one else even asks her to obey or adhere to any rules.

AND, “Dad” is not allowed to affectionately touch “Mom” in her presence without the threat of significant bodily harm and damage (thank goodness she is not a Rottweiler!).

I had my plate full for sure!  “Princess” was quite displeased to see the emergence of a dog trainer at her door!  We had lots of work to do for sure and Princess had to learn boundaries and adhere to rules, but due to her possessive owner behavior and recent admittance of like behavior out there with many of my readers, I thought it was time to tackle this problem and help you to get on the way to recognizing it and solving it!  Protective behavior which was recently misunderstood in my article Help!  My Dog is Too Protective is usually not possessive behavior.

I once worked with a friend very early in my career (I was 18) who swore animals did not have “human” emotions.  I don’t know whether she was yanking my chain to watch me get fired up about the subject or whether she truly believed that dogs didn’t have emotions.  Unfortunately she is not the only person I have heard make such a ridiculous claim.

I am here to attest to the fact that animals DO DO, DO, DO, DO, have emotions!  Did I make that clear?  Yes, they DO!  What I don’t believe they have is the ability to “punish” or get back at us.  They are not by nature “sneaky” post behavior.  Sneaky, conniving behavior is a human trait.  But that is for another article!

I guarantee that dogs suffer from jealousy! 

Jealousy is a nasty trait!  Wikipedia defines jealousy as a secondary emotion, typically referring to negative thoughts and feelings of insecurity, fear and anxiety over an anticipated loss of something that the “person” (dog) values, particularly in reference to a human connection.  Jealousy often consists of a combination of presenting emotions such as anger, sadness, resentment and disgust.  Not to be confused with envy.

We have all seen and suffered from jealousy to some degree.  It has been observed in infants 5 months and older!  Whether it is a sibling, a stepmother/father, or a friend we have all had these feelings.

When I was born, my sister (who was 3) used to sneak into my crib every night and pinch me as hard as she could until I screamed!  She definitely had some jealousy issues, that thankfully we have worked out now  ha ha!

Dogs, especially those dogs that don’t have siblings or other dogs to compete with, often suffer from jealousy.  This single dog phenomenon sets them up to be a little more selfish and much less apt to “share”; similarly to single child homes.

Although I believe it is most common in single dog homes, it can also happen in homes with multiple dogs but usually the aggression and jealousy and possessiveness is shown toward the other dogs in the family (this would be another article).

The “Princess” phenomenon is very common; the dog usually bonds to one person and simply doesn’t want to share this person or his/her affection with anyone else.  Other people are seen as possible competitors and treated as such when they cross the boundaries set by the dog and ask for affection from “the dog’s” person.

Most often these dogs are spoiled!!  Spoiled dogs like spoiled children are much more demanding and feel much more entitled to whatever they seek.   Whereas the object of the dog’s affection may demand some form of obedience and adherence to some rules, most often the other people in the family or friends do not interact with the dog on an obedience level.   When a person, adult, or parent is only “fun” they are often not respected!

What to Do?

The first thing is to make sure everyone in the family is safe.  These possessive tyrants are often willing to issue a bite and in large dogs these bites can be quite severe!  Never use negative or nasty training techniques or the aggression is liable to escalate!  Always keep the dog on a leash and use lots of positive reinforcement!  This type of training may take time, it is okay for everyone to move slowly in their training to ensure safety.

First the dynamics of all the relationships in the family need to change!  That includes the person that is the object of the dog’s affection!  I have seen people who come to me for help with this problem, but deep down they are delighted that their dog “loves” them so much that they are willing to bite or protect them from anyone.  I can’t help people or their dogs when they are unwilling to make some very drastic changes!  This is not a cute behavior for any dog!

The other people in the family need to be willing to safely step up to a new relationship.  This person, who is always feeling like they may be bitten for showing affection to someone they love can be angry and feel vengeful toward the dog.  I find that sometimes they seek help, just because they love the person in the middle but they detest the dog and are unwilling to make significant changes.  This will not work if everyone is not willing to create new relationships and let the past go!

Positive reinforcement training and having fun is the only way to change naughty behavior

Not only does the person that has been threatened need to bring some obedience and rules to the equation, they also need to be a center of fun, treats, and food for the dog.  Positive reinforcement is the only way to win the hearts of these little or big bullies.

The dog’s life needs to go from centering on “his chosen person” to  centering on the person he has been jealous of.  In the new restructuring of the household this person needs to now take charge of feeding the dog, walking the dog, and generally playing with the dog.  All good things should come from this person and very little interaction should come from the person the dog already loves.

The former object of the dog’s affection needs to take a backseat to the new relationship and let family and friends be the center of the dog’s life.  Although this is difficult for this person, it is essential and I guarantee the dog will still love you!  Sneaking love, snuggling and affection will only undermine the dog’s ability to form a loving relationship with the other person!

I recommend the person who has been threatened by the dog take an obedience class where he/she can take the dog alone to a new environment and begin to shape a new relationship.  Even if the dog has good obedience skills, taking your dog to a class builds a bond of trust and companionship and if done with a good trainer is fun.

I recommend getting these little green monsters (because green is the color of jealousy) off of your furniture.  These dogs do not need to be sitting in the laps or sleeping with those they are guarding; this only makes change more difficult and more dangerous.

Put a leash on your dog and pluck him off of the furniture when he jumps up.  Being on the furniture is a privilege at my house and has to be earned.  If you show good behavior and listen to commands and don’t have aggression or possession issues toward anyone in the house, you can lie on the furniture, if you do have any of those issues…you aren’t allowed.

The person being guarded can tell the dog he doesn’t like the possessive behavior by plucking the dog off or leading it away but should otherwise not get involved in the relationship of the dog and other family member.  It is detrimental to have this person shouting second commands or coming in and making the dog adhere.  When the dog is possessive this person should get up and leave the room.  Possessive behavior=the loss of the person the dog loves or a time out so to speak.

As the first love of the dog’s life steps out and lets the other person begin to form a loving, bond, built on positive reinforcement, obedience, and fun and the dog begins to love this new person it is time to add the positive reinforcement of affection into the scenario.

I do not recommend doing this until the tide of the relationship has definitely changed and is apparent to everyone involved.  Flaunting affection with another person when your dog is being possessive may very well make the behavior much worse and more dangerous!  The dog must first love and listen to both people.

Now put your dog on a leash, so that you can control any naughty behavior and keep everyone safe, and start showing mild forms of affection toward that person.  Pats on the back, holding hands, resting a hand on the person for a short time is mild.  Hugging, kissing or laying on the person may be too much for the dog to handle at first because it can be seen as aggression on one person’s part to the other.

Pair this light affection with clicks and treats for good behavior.  If the dog shows no possessive behavior click and treat or jackpot for a good response.  Watch for any signs of possessive behavior such as stiffening, growling, showing teeth, or even putting himself in between you.  If there are signs of aggression, back up in your training and relationship forming; person number 2 needs to work harder on positive reinforcement training and fun alone with the dog before moving forward.

If the dog accepts this affection between two people readily with no signs of distress you may move on with your canoodling!  Be sure to keep him on a leash and click

An affectionate relationship for everyone is the goal!

and treat!  The dog needs to associate people on people affection with getting really great treats!

As the relationships change and the dog no longer shows ANY form of possession, the original object of affection can again start to show more love, snuggling and cuddling with the dog while making sure rules are adhered to and the dog respects and loves everyone involved.

As always FUN and safety are the most important aspects in making changes in your dog’s life!

Help for Dogs that Control Their Owners Relationships is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Problem #1: Theories were Based on Outdated Information

When dog training hit the mainstream a few years ago and got a lot of coverage on new series and TV moments, almost certainly the reason for a dog’s problems were linked to his “wolf heritage” and short term studies that were done on wolves in the 1940s.

Problem #2:  These Short Outdated Studies were performed on Captive Wolves

The problem with most of these studies that proclaimed to shed light on not only wolf behavior but also dog behavior was that they were done mostly with captive wolves.

Captive wolves are forced into manmade packs, where they are forced to live in a tiny confined environment, adapt, and workout their own hierarchy.  It is hypothesized that the behaviors witnessed were created because of this stressful environment.  Aggression and pecking order were forced on these wolves, because they were forced into this manmade unrelated pack.  Hierarchy and alpha status was required in this state.

In the wild, wolves exist in family structures.   Dr. L. David Mech who has studied wolves for over 40 years debunks even using the term Alpha and Beta when referring to wild wolves.   Most wolf packs consist of a single breeding pair: Dad & Mom, a group of lower ranking non-breeding adults, a group of outcasts, and a group of immature adults working their way up the pack.  Some of these pups will grow up, leave the pack and seek their own territory and mate.

Although the status of juvenile wolf pups changes often, everyone respects mom and dad while testing their boundaries with older aunts and uncles to see what they can get away with.  Sound like anyone’s kids?  I remember the days we would get substitute teachers at school, and we would do anything to get away without homework!

The question is then…Are our dog packs “forced packs” like with the captive wolves or are they more like the “family structures” of wild wolves?  This question is less easily answered and certainly up for discussion.

Are All Dogs Really Wolves?

Submissive Behavior at its Finest

Domestic dogs have been bred for centuries to be pets.  When domesticating dogs first began, dogs that were friendly to humans were bred to other sociable dogs.  Sociable puppies were retained and used for work and more breeding.

During this evolution a process called pedomorphosis or Neoteny occurred.  Neoteny is the retention of juvenile traits and behaviors by the adults of a species.  Essentially this means that stop developing earlier than wolf cubs do; they retain more baby-like behaviors and never mature to the status of adult wolf type behavior.  It is arrested development at its finest and a repercussion of breeding and domesticating dogs.

Doctor Deborah Goodwin the facial features of dogs and how they relate to wolf behavior.   She found that the more a dog breed resembled a wolf the more wolf type behaviors they displayed.

Dogs like Siberian Huskies, German Shepherds, and Golden Retrievers with their long snouts and pointy ears retain more wolf like behaviors, while dogs such as French Bulldogs and Cavalier King Charles Spaniels with their short snouts, big eyes, rounded ears and toy –like faces maintain barely any of these behaviors.

Doctor Goodwin says that a King Charles Spaniel never matures mentally past the stage of a puppy.  It even continues to look like a puppy throughout its life!

So some dogs are more wolf than others, but most have been bred predominantly intentionally or by chance to retain more puppy like behaviors and less wolf behaviors.

Is This Good News?

Not necessarily!  It appears that our domestic dogs never mature to the point of getting the conflict solving behaviors that wolves do.   Wolves can use more submissive behaviors to stay out of a fight, but most dogs have lost these complex submissive behaviors because they remain in a puppy like state.

Young wolves develop aggressive behaviors first and then they develop the submissive behaviors that they will need later on to keep him out of a fight.  Aggressive behaviors develop first so that a dog or a young puppy can defend himself if needed; submissive behaviors are a way to keep out of conflict all together.

But, many of today’s dogs don’t develop these submissive behaviors and they are unable to recognize them when another dog shows them. This is what makes putting adult dogs together such a danger.   They don’t have the passive skills they need and even a wolf pack might launch an attack in a similar situation.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniels Always Look Like Puppies!

What Can You Take Away From This Information?

Dogs need a good parent, not a pack leader!

Probably the reason these old theories have worked for so long is by default.  Dog owners do need to be the leader of their home, not because the dog will become aggressive and take over but because these eternal puppy-like dogs need boundaries and a good parent.

Dog owners need to be good parents to their dogs just like they do for their children.  Spoiled children with no rules and parents that don’t set limits create the same kind of mayhem.  Dogs have to learn good behaviors and manners and their parents need to instill and make them follow rules.

It doesn’t really matter if you want to think of yourself as Alpha or parent, what does matter is that you set rules.  And, because your dog never truly mentally matures, you will have to keep on being a good parent and setting limits and rules even after your dog is physically mature.  You will probably need to continue to be a good parent for the rest of your dog’s life!

For those of you who want more analytically information, enjoy reading research studies, and want to hear more from the experts follow the links below!

http://www.pawsoflife.org/Library/Behavior/Bradshaw_2009.pdf

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/05/090521112711.htm

http://www.guardian.co.uk/science/2011/jul/17/dog-training-john-bradshaw-animal-behaviour

Alpha Pack Theories Disproven! is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Does Your Dog Threaten to Steal a Body Part When Visitors Come?

Let’s be honest, one of the reason people get and like dogs is because they feel more confident and protected by them.  It has been proven that even the bark of a Chihuahua will drive away a burglar.  For most criminals it simply isn’t worth getting involved with someone with a dog.

When I was 18, a requirement of marriage was getting a Rottweiler.  I got 2!  My female Rottie was around 100# and was the sweetest, kindest, doggie soul you could ever meet.  She almost never met a person she didn’t immediately adore.  I use to laugh because if you simply placed a finger on her she was thrilled by the affection.

As I walked her to the park one day, a man jumped out from around a van.  I had NEVER seen her hackle or her show her teeth to a person before that moment and a growl resonated from within her belly.   I was just an 18 year old kid and definitely not a dog trainer yet.

He hastily scurried around his van entered through the passenger side scooted over and his wheels screeched as he tore out of sight.

It still gives me goose bumps to remember that moment.  I don’t think at that time I truly realized the danger I might have been in, but in hindsight I realize that she sensed something sinister that I did not recognize.  She never showed aggression toward another human being for the rest of her life, she was too busy wagging and soliciting affection to everyone else!

I truly believe that even the most social dog would protect his owner in a crisis.  The good news is that there is rarely ever a true crisis to put my theory to the test.

However, many dogs have a very strong protective instinct.  These dogs feel it is their job to keep their owners safe and they take their job very seriously!

The other problem is that countless people admire and promote this behavior.  When the dog is young and first growls or barks at someone not only are they praised, sometimes people actually feed and reward the dog for showing this behavior.

It usually isn’t until this behavior gets out of control and the dog decides EVERYONE is a threat and no one can get close that the person realizes the danger they have put themselves, their dog, and other people in by encouraging this protective instinct.

I once trained a Labrador Mix as a Service Dog. She adored everyone.  She use to finagle her way around at the grocery store to turn toward the closest person and then she would begin to flirt.  Those brown eyes would wink and call out to the person and her tail would wag incessantly until they gave in and asked to pet her.  She was relentless about seeking attention and affection, but I liked that trait because it meant she liked people and enjoyed her work.

Then I placed her with her new owner and within several months she began getting protective.  I was mystified because I had never seen even a hint of a problem.  But, her new mom was easily startled and a bit prejudiced and she would scream when she was startled or caught off guard.

This screaming and fear brought out the protective instinct of the dog and she began to associate certain people and men with her new mom’s fear.  Screaming showed weakness an inability to take care of herself and probably also scared the dog.  Within a short amount of time the dog just decided, in her mind, if she kept all men away from her mom there would be no more drama or fear so she started to get protective.

Part of the reason she never showed this propensity with me is because I am a very dominant and strong willed person, most dogs would think never think I needed them to protect me because they can clearly see I am in control.  I project an image that I can take care of myself.

What Can You Do?

• You need to take this behavior seriously!  If left unattended this behavior usually only gets worse and it can rapidly become a behavioral pattern over time.  Behavioral patterns are often very difficult to break.  So stop this behavior as soon as possible or keep it from ever happening.
• Never praise your dog for barking or growling aggressively at another person
• Always correct your dog, by telling him NO when he shows aggression toward people (My exception is when someone first comes to the door.  My dogs are allowed to bark but must be quiet when I tell them to)
• If he is nervous or unsure of people, use your clicker and make sure meeting new people is fun
• ALWAYS use a leash!  A LEASH = CONTROL and when a dog shows aggression of any kind you need as much control as possible.
• If your dog is protective at home and  you are having people over, ALWAYS leash your dog prior to their arrival
• Take control!  Dogs takeover situations they think you cannot handle.   Show your dog that you don’t need to be protected by being confident and in control at all times.
• Work tirelessly on obedience!  Obedience puts you in control and your dog in the passenger seat.  You need to be able to put your dog in heel position, by your side and in a “Down” position when he meets new people.  This takes control away from him and gives him something to do and preoccupies his mind.
• You also need to work on the other facets of obedience.  A clear leader, Mom or Dad (YOU) makes the subordinate or child accomplish tasks or listen to get the things they want in life.  Rules are crucial to a good parent/child relationship.  Be a kind but firm parent by having your dog listen to you and do things for you around the house; down stays, sit stays, waiting at the door, come when called, heel at your side and anything else you determine necessary.

If Your Dog is Fearful

If your dog is fearful, he requires a bit of a different type of treatment.  Determine if he is simply scared when you both meet a new person.  If his ears are down, or back or his tail is tucked, or he backs up he is probably scared.

• When a dog is scared he needs to have his confidence built.
• You can build his confidence by making sure that every time new people are around he gets lavishly praised and rewarded for good, social behavior.
• Do NOT praise and reward him when he is scared or he will think that is what you want for him to be=scared.
• Instead, back up until he is showing no signs of fear or nervousness and reward him.
• Slowly work your way toward new people by rewarding him for controlled social behavior.
• Calmly and quietly tell him No if he growls, hackles, or shows any kind of aggression.  Do not compound his fears by yelling or aggressively getting in his face.  Just let him know quietly and calmly that, that behavior is not what you want.
• Make sure that you lavishly reward him and praise him by giving him toys and treats only when people come over (as long as he is not possessive).
• Keep him on a leash and give him something else to do when people are over to keep his mind off of his fears.
• Never allow people to pet him when he is scared.  Petting a scared dog can make the feelings and the behavior worse.  If he cannot be calmed down, ask people not to pet him.  This will show him that he can trust you; by forcing him to allow people to touch him, when he doesn’t want to be touched he may learn to growl or show aggression just to keep people away.

I have a dog that is nervous with people, but he has never shown possession aggression of his toys or treats.  When I have people over, I put him on a leash, keep him close to me in heel position and in a down as I welcome them and tell them to enter.  He lies down at my feet and chews a special peanut butter filled bone when people come to visit.

This positive interaction of people=a special treat helps him to look forward to visits from other people.  Instead of getting nervous or aggressive when people come over, he is excited because he knows if he shows appropriate behavior he will get his bone!

I never force him to interact with someone if he doesn’t want to, however I do insist if he is nervous or unsure of a person that he lay at my feet on leash the whole time the person is in my home!

Good luck and try to keep this fun but take the control of your relationship back by letting your dog know you are in charge of who you socialize with!

My best advice is never to let your dog show these behaviors!  Trust me, when or if you should ever need him to truly protect you he will undoubtedly be there for you in your crisis!

Help! My Dog is Too Protective is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Working with a Cheetah! How's that for training experience!!

I love to read!  When I was a baby I got a vaccination that almost took my life.  I am sure my mother was terrified.  I have some memories of lying on the couch very sick.  My mother would read to me for hours, and at that time (before DVDs or VHS…ahhh I hate aging myself) Disney movies came on record.

I would sit and listen to a movie over and over until I had basically memorized it. In some ways I am grateful for all of my experiences they have shaped me and who I am as an adult.  Because of that one shot, my immune system was never quite able to fight off infection and I did get and still get every flu bug that goes around. I grew up loving reading.   Reading was my way to escape into another world and to learn about…well, anything I was interested in at the time.  My mother did not allow video games, and TV was restricted

This love of reading followed me to college when I double majored one being in English.  I still love English Literature (I know I am a nerd).  But, in many ways these are all the reasons you are reading this article right now.  If I grew up playing video games, I probably wouldn’t be writing or reading to entertain myself.

I am able to learn by reading, and I have hundreds of books lining a book shelf to prove it.  I enjoy reading and breaking things down; highlighting important points for further study.

Part of the beginning of my successful dog training career came from reading just about every dog training book I could get my hands on.  Almost 20 years ago it was difficult to find any kind of dog training on VHS or to see anything visually that wasn’t learned at a class or a seminar.

Much of my learning took place at night reading one book and then another.

My FAVORITE Book!

I remember when Karen Pryor came out with “Don’t Shoot the Dog” such a remarkable ground breaking book. I still read it for fun occasionally (party animal that I am).  I recommend that book to anyone who has a dog, is a mother, works with people…well, ANYONE really!

But not everyone likes to read.  My husband (bless his heart) admits that if it is not a popup picture book he is probably not interested in reading it.  I am not sure he has read a book since high school and/or Navy Training and he was forced to do so.  I can say these things because I know he is not going to read this ha ha ha

Don’t get me wrong, he is a smart guy and was E8 Senior Chief Engineer on a destroyer in the Navy.  He actually has much better recall on most factual things than I do; he can tell you each step or how a bill becomes law, the capitals of the states, and all kinds of bizarre history facts.  I pretend to remember these things too, unless put on the spot.

So what happens to those of you who might learn better from a hands on approach to dog training, and other things?

We are introducing instructional dog training videos!  Me and my furry kids have been hitting the grass (no pun intended) and shooting some videos that tackle some of the most basic, and some of the most difficult dog training problems.

Although it is hard for me to keep things to a short minimum while writing or taping (I like hearing myself my husband says), most of the videos are a short 2 to 3 minutes long.

2 to 3 minutes may not seem like long, but it is enough to help you visualize the problem and how to fix it!

It may be difficult to imagine working a dog in “drive”, but it only takes a minute or two to show you how to begin developing drive to utilize your dogs instincts in your obedience training program.  Drive and Focus are two of my favorite aspects about good, competition style obedience.  Often the things I have written articles about, I have also shot instructional videos to help you achieve these goals.

Come Join Us!

We also tackle some of your questions and some of the basic needs everyone has with their dog.

I know, too that there are many readers from around the world, and these videos will help to break down the language barrier for anyone who might struggle.  Visually seeing how to do things will be enough to help you with your dog’s training, problems, or level of exercise and entertainment.

So come check them out at the Dog Training Secret Video Vault and utilize these tips to further your relationship with your dog and your dog training skills.  We guarantee you will enjoy them and you will see a rapid change in your dogs obedience and attitude toward you and training!

The Dog Training Secret’s New Video Vault is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

The truth is you don’t have to abusive techniques to enjoy protection sports.  The most important thing is to understand the liability involved in such sports.  The liability and inability for a lot people to control their dogs in many given situations is why I don’t regularly recommend these types of sports.  We live in a “sue happy” world and adding more liability is not needed for most people!

But all that is beside the point!  I want to share with you what I have specifically learned and think everyone can learn from Schutzhund training and practices.

A number of people hate the tracking that is involved in Schutzhund because they think it is tedious or hate getting up early to lay a track.  Personally, I understand their gripe.  I am not the earliest riser, nor do I like scuffing or plodding along in a field laying a track, marking my corners and then waiting for it to age the appropriate amount of time for the specific training level of whatever dog I am working.

Sometimes it is just hard to find a field that you can lay a track for your dog!

But, my dogs have always LOVED tracking.  I think the last dog I competed and trained with actually liked the tracking more than he even enjoyed the bite work part of Schutzhund!  He knew the first component in daily training was my laying him a track, and he could hardly stand the excitement when I put my “track laying” boots on!

Tracking involves a dogs nose AND his brain!  Tracking different people and different scents through the grass or even over pavement can be totally stimulating and

Tracking

completely exhilarating for dogs!  Even though I may not enjoy the monotonous facets of tracking (because I don’t have a superpower nose), I recognize that involving my dog’s nose is crucial to his happiness!

Some people think Schutzhund is not realistic because the dog is never put in “real world” situations.  I actually like that about Schutzhund!  How many people need a dog that would readily bite another person?  What happens when you teach your dog to defend an attack on you, but someone in need of help runs up to you in the park and grabs your shoulder?  Or what would happen when a deaf child (this HAPPENED to me last weekend) or mentally impaired person runs up to you?  Most of us don’t need a “real world” biting, police type dog.

Numerous people who compete in other such sports have told me how boring Schutzhund is especially since the obedience follows the same pattern or routine.  This point I must totally agree with!   Although I enjoy knowing the “routine” for competition sake, following the same mind-numbing routine day after day can get tiresome for both the person and the dog.

Obedience should be a way of life, and although certain competitions can boost or even enhance a person’s training regiment, I think a dog should be taught to listen in all aspects of “real life”.

That being said, I have learned more from Schutzhund obedience than almost anything else in my training career.  If you have ever watched a Schutzhund competition either online or at a trial, you will notice how all the dogs look up into the handler’s face and genuinely seem to enjoy the obedience routine.

Inattentive "boring" heeling

You see if you compete in Schutzhund your dog MUST look up at the handler and appear to enjoy the routine.  The judge can and will take off points if your dog is not staring up into your face, or even if it appears that compulsion (corrections) were used to intimidate the dog; THAT is what I love about Schutzhund!

In very few other sports can a team lose points if the dog doesn’t appear happy, or lose points for cowering or acting intimidated by the handler!  I think all sports should be judged this way!  Most other sports, AKC included, only care if the dog is in the appropriate or designated position; this leads to bare minimum training and sometimes the over reliance on compulsion and leash corrections.

Schutzhund trainers train their dogs in “Drive” and teach their dogs that obedience and adherence to commands is all part of a fun goal oriented game.  Obedience, in fact, must usually involve the dog’s favorite game in order to get a perfect or ideal performance.

I am no longer content with a dog that simply stays in the desired position!  I want a dog that stares up at my face with happiness and a desire to do what I want so that it can play with me!  This kind of obedience is striking to watch and phenomenal to experience.

Focused Heeling in "Drive"

Dogs should be taught using their instincts and drives to do the things that we want them to do.  Not only is this type of obedience more impressive, it should be more fun for you both!  Dogs that work in “Drive” (using their natural instincts and playing games) enjoy working for and listening to you.

Training your dog in “Drive” will be a separate article, but suffice it to say the more fun you can make your training, the more you can teach your dog to utilize his instincts, and the more you train and work together having fun the happier you will both be!  When your dog is happy and he is enjoying his training, you will readily be able to see it on his face, in the way he prances and in his countenance.

What I Learned From Schutzhund Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Slightly Intimidating!

I have 2  Belgian Malinois and a Dutch Shepherd so it should be no surprise to those of you who are familiar with dog breeds and working dogs that I enjoy protection sports.  PLEASE!  Don’t send hate mail, although all viewpoints are welcome, I do not adhere to the barbaric practices that have formerly been known throughout the sports!

I got involved in police dog training and protection sports almost 15 years ago.  I was training Service Dogs fulltime for a nonprofit organization when I got the opportunity to get drawn into the world of protection dogs and I couldn’t resist!  I have always had the opportunity to work with trainers that were positive reinforcement based.

I think if I had, had to learn by using shock collars and “choking dogs out” I would have opted not to learn that part of the business.  But, I was lucky to be taught using good, kind, positive methods.  The men and people that I have worked with would rather have not trained a dog in the sport than to have forced a dog into the sport or to have used barbaric methods to train.

It is exhilarating work; and some of my most favorite times and memories have been spent in a bite suit!

Most often, I don’t talk about this type of training or these sports because they are so often misunderstood and people get so emotional about the training.  But I would NEVER subject my dogs to any type of training I am not comfortable with, and you would never know my dogs are trained by seeing them or coming to my home.  I have some of these kindest, most welcoming dogs you could ever meet!

But, I must admit to it and bring it up in this article so that I can share some information with you that only solidified my interpretation and the way that I train!

I love seminars and continuing my education when it comes to all facets of dog training.  I take every opportunity to travel and go to as many as time and finances will allow.  And, recently I had the opportunity to go to a 4 day seminar with all of my dogs based in the protection sports and given by a world renowned dog trainer/handler.

Even if I do not subscribe to all the training aids and all the many ways people train, I believe that I can learn something from everyone.  Even if that “something” is…I will NEVER do that!  Educating myself about the inter-workings of other sports and from other trainers makes me a better, more well rounded dog trainer.  I am confident in what I will do and what I will and will not allowed to be done with and to my dogs.

If you regularly read my articles you will know that I am a positive reinforcement trainer.  I am a convert actually, because I was taught to train dogs (almost 20 years ago) using prong collars and compulsion.  At 18 I really didn’t know any better, although I quickly changed my tune when I was introduced to my first clicker and Karen Pryor!

I don’t like compulsion or what other people call “corrections” at least not the physical kind.  I don’t think a person should have to use their brawn to get an animal to do something for them.  I think that humans can use their minds to get animals to want to perform for them!

I can’t say that this particular trainer/handler is as immersed in positive reinforcement training as I am!  But, I will say that he kept saying “Corrections make dogs crazy!”

Now, he is not from this country.  Most world renowned protection sports trainers aren’t, so I suppose there is room for translation.  But I think he knew exactly what he was saying.  At one time, he was “pro” making the dog crazy but all others he was against it.

Let me explain:

Object Located in the Woods

In one of the sports in question, the dog is sent into the woods to find a missing object with his nose.  Once the dog locates the object he must continually bark at the object until his handler comes to his side.  He is not to bite at or move the object, just stand there barking intensely for as long as it takes for his handler to get to him.

In this situation the trainer wants the dog to be crazy (intensely focused on the item) so that he doesn’t lose interest, grab the item, or go looking for his handler.  So, I found it very interesting that he encouraged physical correction around the item to build the intensity and focus from the dog.  The physical correction (pain) from the handler and the frustration, really does make the dog “crazy” and actually makes the dogs want the item MORE.

Now, please understand I will never be doing this or recommending this type of training.  I don’t own police dogs and I have no need for this type of training.  I am also aware that this type of training won’t work this way for ALL dogs.  Some dogs will have their spirit or their feelings broken.  But, the dogs in question are very “hard” naturally intense dogs.  Their instincts and genetics give them this fight drive.

How Does This Apply to the Average Dog Owner?

I realized that normal people sometimes get these “hard”, determined, and intense dogs that challenge them and have a lot of fight drive.  They are not of the “pleasing people for the sheer joy of it” kind of dogs.  They may be big or small; it is more about attitude and temperament than size or breed.  And, most of these dogs are NOT police dogs!!

But, corrections and physical pain actually lead to MORE FRUSTRATION and the heightening or the building of the behavior that most people DON’T want!  People think a well timed leash correction or some physical pain will actually stop a behavior, but I am here to tell you I watched time and time again that, that type of response only escalated the intensity and the aggressiveness of the behavior!

Calm responses and positively reinforcing good behavior leads to more good behavior.  I have never seen positive reinforcement lead to rage, frustration, or biting.  Positive reinforcement leads to thinking and problem solving and those behaviors are not conducive to rage and the intensity that it brings.

I have always said, “Aggression leads to aggression”.  A friend of mine use to say “Aggression is the first resource of the incompetent”, meaning a thinking animal or person doesn’t need aggression to deal with any situation.

Don’t get me wrong, most of the seminar was about using positive reinforcement, toys, treats, biting and other reinforcement to get the dogs to do what we wanted.  Most of the time when he said, “Corrections make dogs crazy!” he meant it in a bad way and didn’t want the person to use physicality to manipulate the dog; I had just never seen corrections used intentionally like that to frustrate a dog to make him more aggressive and intense!

So take it from me and use your brain to get your dog to do what you want it to, otherwise you may be creating an uncontrollable monster with physical pain and corrections!  Just another reason to get that clicker and start clicking!

Just Another Reason NOT to use Compulsion in Dog Training! is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

At night, all dogs sleep in my bedroom and she RACES into the bedroom and sits on the crate next to my side of the bed and waits for me.  I can’t shower alone, sometimes I have 3 dogs and a cat in the bathroom with me and if she is really lucky when I take a bath I let her sit out on the “island” that is me.  She sits on my legs and dips her tail and paws in the water and purrs with joy.  She is an integral part of our family and I love her (shhhhh I am kind of a secret cat person)!

She is a covert ninja and habitually jumps out from behind or beneath furniture to wreak havoc on my canine crew.  She flies through the air and instigates the “vader bomb” and other pro-wrestling maneuvers popping them in the face with her power paw and biting their legs and then running for the safety of her cat house.

I have big dogs they could kill my cat in the blink of an eye and I would never want to risk her life so because I am the alpha of my house I make sure my dogs have respect for my cat or any smaller dog that might enter my house.

I also have herding dogs and they must be taught to curb their natural chasing instinct and respect the cat!

Since my dogs were pups, I have made it a point that they are not allowed to chase or mistreat the cat no matter what she does to them.  Because of their obvious size difference they are simply not allowed to retaliate.  If, however, I think the cat has gone too far with her mischievous cat-like ways I use a squirt bottle.  Respect is a MUST at my house for everyone involved!

HOW?

I want everyone in my family to get along!

I keep my puppies or new adult dogs on a leash when they first come home.  They are not allowed full reign of the house until they earn it!  This allows me to teach them how to interact with everyone in my family including my cat!  This keeps them from forming naughty habits when it comes to the cat and everything else in my house.

By controlling their environment, I am conditioning them to accept the things that I think are important.  This also gives the other dogs and cat the ability to feel like their house is not being taken over.  When my other animals feel like there is a puppy “invasion” they can become withdrawn, angry, and defensive about their home, their “things” and sharing me.

Instead, they know the puppy’s or dog’s limits and where they are in the house.  The other animals can make the choice whether or not to come and interact with the new arrival.  Often, I think owners make the mistake of letting a new dog or puppy run freely through the house and torment the existing animals and family members!  This out of control feeling makes everyone feel hostile and belligerent and it is almost impossible to train an out of control dog or puppy!

I also teach my animals the “leave it” command early in training.  “Leave it” means you can’t look at, touch, chase or eat whatever I am referring to.  I start with food that I can control, I say “leave it” and don’t allow my dog access to the food.  Once he finally gives up trying, I click and reward with a better treat.

Continue putting down food and saying “leave it”, as your dog begins to ignore the food click and treat with the better treat.  Next put the food closer and closer, and if your dog is successful continue clicking and treating for his leaving the food alone.

If he is not successful and goes for the unavailable food back up and put the food out of his reach again until he can be successful.  The next step is to use the leave it command with a higher value treat and follow the same steps.

Soon you will have a dog that is actively leaving whatever item you ask him to because he knows he will get a better reward by listening to you.

So when Ninja cat flies out from behind the sofa, does a “Vader Bomb” (jumps on their back), bites my dog on the ear and runs off into the bedroom my dog simply looks up from where he is laying and gets my attention as if to say “I deserve a treat for that” and I must say I agree!  Each time my dogs treat the cat with love and respect or play gently with her they are significantly rewarded for their efforts!

This training regiment keeps the peace in my house and keeps my cat from being injured!  This way I have ultimate control and I get to snuggle with both the dogs and the cat!

CAUTION

Not all dogs can live safely with cats!  Some adult dogs are too prey driven to live safely with cats, if given the opportunity or if the cat runs some dogs will struggle to kill the cat.  I, personally, have never had a problem raising a puppy to live with an existing cat, however I have brought adult dogs into my home that I knew would never be safe to live with my cats.

When integrating a new adult dog, be sure to keep the dog on a leash and don’t allow him access to your house.  If you feel uneasy about incorporating the new dog there is probably a reason and another situation (without cats) may be needed!  Trust your instincts!  If there is staring, hackling, growling or any other aggressive behavior you may need to seek another home for the dog!  Never risk the lives or your existing animals to add a new pet to your home!  Safety first!!

My Cat is Alpha Dog of our Pack! is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog