WRONG type of Conditioning!

Conditioning affects all of us in normal life and as it relates to our dogs.  It is important to understand conditioning and how it works in order to best control it when it comes to our canine companions.

First, let’s get the technical “speak” out of the way and then we can talk in more layman’s terms.

There are different types of conditioning when it comes to behavior.   We normally refer to two types of behavioral conditioning when it comes to our dogs; classical conditioning and operant conditioning.

Classical Conditioning:  Is a form of learning that involves presentation of a neutral stimulus along with a stimulus of some significance.  The neutral stimulus is a stimulus that does not normally affect the behavior of the respondent.  The significant stimulus is a stimulus that evokes a natural response.  Responses elicited by classical conditioning are not maintained by consequences.

Operant Conditioning: is a form of learning during which an individual learns to modify the occurrence and form of its own behavior due to the association with a stimulus.   This is modification of voluntary behavior.  Naturally occurring consequences can reinforce, punish, or extinguish behavior and are not always delivered by people.

In Layman’s Terms:

Classical Conditioning is training with a marker like a certain word or a clicker.  It is pairing something like a treat, with something that in the beginning is

Classical Conditioning

not understood or known by the dog.  By pairing something that the dog would naturally want (the treat) with something that the dog doesn’t really know (the clicker) it conditions the marker (or the clicker) to mean essentially the same thing as the treat after a period of time.  Therefore the marker can be used to reinforce desirable behavior.

Operant Conditioning is the dog learning (sometimes on his own) what is reinforcing and what has negative consequences in his own environment.  This can involve human/dog training or it can be something that is self-learned.

I believe that both of these types of training are important.  I really like classical conditioning because I can better control my dog, his learning and his responses.

But, for the purpose of this article I want to focus on operant conditioning and how it can negatively affect your training without you realizing it.

Often bad behaviors or behavior problems start out small.  For whatever the reason, your dog finds the behavior rewarding.  He may begin barking and he learns that he enjoys the sound of his own voice, or he sees the mailman leave after barking threatening him.

An intact male dog may begin to mark his territory inside the house.

If you notice the behavior in the beginning, it is usually fairly quick to change.  Instead of the behavior being rewarding for the dog, you can change the behavior, or restrict the behavior.

For instance if I have a dog that is constantly looking out the window and barking I am going to restrict his access to that window and if I have a dog marking or urinating in the house I am going to keep him on a leash with me and restrict his access to my house.  At my house these things are privileges that need to be earned.

I am Going to Change Bad Behavior Before it Becomes Habit

But, I do my best to nip bad behavior in the bud the moment I see it.  Even if I think  it is a little cute (begging or tail chasing) I must not encourage the behavior or it will become harder to eventually fix.

I recently had an older client at my house with her 4 year old poodle.  He was barking incessantly.  The problem was that her husband had originally thought it was cute when he barked at the front door and at noises on the TV and rewarded the behavior by encouraging it.

The dog learned that this behavior was appreciated, so he began to show it all of the time.  Soon he was barking when a leaf hit the ground, or when his owners moved the furniture and eventually it wasn’t cute anymore.

However, at this point the behavior had become conditioned.  He had been showing the behavior for so long it has become second nature.

The same is true with allowing your dog to urinate or defecate in your house for a long time.  Instead of being a behavior problem, it becomes a conditioned behavior.

A conditioned behavior is like a habit, whether it be good or bad.  But, habits are hard to change; especially well established habits.

Old habits are hard to break and new habits are hard to form because the behavioral patterns we repeat are imprinted in our neural pathways.

The basal ganglion (in the brain) appears to remember the context that triggers a habit, meaning they can be revived if triggers appear.

This is why it is sooo important to create good habits and change the behavior problems immediately when we see them.

People often ask me “Is he too old to learn”?  to which I vehemently say “NO! Dogs are never too old to learn!”

But learning is much easier if you are not breaking a bad habit!

Which means you can probably teach your 5 year old Chihuahua to “shake” hands a lot faster than you can re-train him not to bark at everything that moves.

What Can You Do?

Condition and Reward Good Behaviors to Form Good Habits!

Make sure that you are conditioning the good behaviors that your dog shows.  Encourage him to lay down, to come when called, to be quiet, and to potty outside.  After a period of time good behaviors are also conditioned.  Wouldn’t it be nice to know that your dog is “conditioned” to come to you when you call him?  But in order to achieve this you have to put in the work and effort to consistently reward it.

In order to achieve conditioning or habit forming, you must be consistent with your reward.  You must also fairly consistently or regularly reward these behaviors.  You can’t condition the behavior and then never reward your dog for it again or the reward and the habit will extinguish or go away!

Remember that many naughty behaviors your dog is showing are self-rewarding.  He doesn’t need you to reward them because he is rewarding himself and so conditioning happens very quickly!

Be very careful what behavior you reward!  You may think, initially that you want your dog or your puppy to bark but I guarantee after a time you will want some quiet and silence on command.  You don’t need to reward barking, most often it is a self-rewarding behavior, and you do want to reward QUIET!

IF Your Dog Has a Bad Habit

Be patient!!!  It is very difficult to change a bad behavior that has developed into a habit!

You must be willing to be almost completely consistent or at least aim for 95% consistency and reaction!

This consistency is what helps to form a new behavior.

Think of your dog as a former drug abuser or someone trying to quit smoking.  Be patient!  Bad habits don’t change overnight.

Don’t give up!  Your dog is worth your time and effort and he needs you to be resilient and patient!

A favorite quote of mine that applies to constant, consistent and positive dog training:

Shoot for the moon. Even if you miss, you’ll land among the stars.

Don’t settle for the bare minimum or give the least effort you think

you can get away with. If you’re going to do something, do it to the

best of your ability! 

Understanding Conditioning in Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Puppies are a True Joy!

So you are thinking of getting a puppy?

Nothing is more exciting than adding a new life to your family structure, but you want to make sure you get the pup of your dreams and not one that gives you nightmares, right?

We can help give you some food for thought when it comes to new puppies!

Puppies are super fun, but they take a substantial amount of time and training!

#1 Time

Puppies need to go outside regularly; experts say you should take your dog’s age by month and add one to decide how often he needs to go outside and go potty.  So if you have an 8 week old puppy that = two months, + 1: so your puppy should go out at least every 3 hours during the day!

Do you have the time to stay home with a puppy and let him out every 2-3 hours or would you prefer an older puppy or adult dog?

#2 Temperament

Temperament is my main focus when I am looking for a new dog.  It is desperately hard to judge a little tiny puppy.  Those of us that compete in different dog trials know that puppies about 7 months are much easier to judge than those that are super young.  There are so many factors when it comes to temperament.

I look at mom and dad.  If I can’t hug or kiss mommy and daddy dog…I probably don’t want a puppy from them.  Even if I want a “protective” dog, I still want a social dog and yes you can have both!

The majority of puppies that I see with aggression problems came from an adult dog with aggression issues!

Even if the puppy is cute or seems social, or you feel sorry for him don’t take a puppy that came from an aggressive parent.  If the adult dog has to be locked up when you come this is a serious RED FLAG!

Do You Want a Busy Puppy?

#3 Activity Level

Different breeds and different dogs require different kinds of commitments.  Let’s face it; all puppies require an immense amount of time and commitment, but some puppies require even more.

Was the breed you are looking at bred to work all day long?

Some lines of Labrador Retrievers, Border Collies, Aussies, German Shepherd Dogs and even Golden Retrievers can be bred to work all day.

Active breeds need lots of exercise and mental stimulation and if the dog is bred from “working or field lines” you can guarantee the effort needed will be multiplied.

And, don’t think just because you get a small dog that Chihuahuas, Poodles, or Jack Russells are easy to live with!

#4 Purebred or Mix

Are you looking for a purebred or a mixed breed puppy?  Rescues can still be a wonderful source for not only mixed breeds but also purebred puppies!   Even if you are looking for a certain breed contact the local rescue to find out if they have puppies and which breeders to avoid!

#5 Health

I am a firm believer that mixed breed dogs are healthier than purebred dogs!  But, mixed breeds can still have health problems.

There are some breeds that are known to only live to 8 years old.

Some dogs have a high likelihood of cancer, heart disease, and other disorders.

If you get some different breeds narrowed down, talk to your vet!  We use to talk, at the vet clinic, that a person would have to be a doctor to afford some breeds of dog!  Your vet will be honest with you!

# 6 Training

Not all dogs are created equal!  Some dogs are much more difficult to train than others and some dogs are not recommended for first time dog owners.  If you want to herd cattle, don’t get a Maltese!

Figure out what you want to accomplish with your new dog and find an appropriate match.  Some dog are good hikers and some dogs would peter out after 10 minutes or scrape their skin tender on a rock.

If you have high hopes or aspirations find a breed that fits your needs!

Do you Want a Dog this Size?

#7 Size

Do you want a small dog or big dog?

Although small dogs eat less; sometimes they take more effort, exercise and training than a big dog!  Little dogs can be quite a challenge to potty train and to train in general!

# 8 Coat

Do you want to have to groom your dog every three weeks or do you want a wash and wear dog?  Grooming can be quite expensive and some dogs require it at least every three weeks!

Can you handle having dog fur on your food, in your car, on your sofa and on your body constantly?

#9 Male or Female

There are great things about both sexes!  I think my favorite is neutered males, if you neuter them early (about 16 weeks is ideal for me)!

Think about if you have other dogs in the house.

Females often have a difficult time adjusting to other females, and intact males will fight with other intact males.

Do your research and if you have other dogs see how they do with friend’s puppies!

The Top 8Things to Consider Before Adding a Puppy to Your Household is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Is This Your Dog?

I work with a lot of clients and most of them suffer from this syndrome.  Their dog does something wrong and they shout “NO” or “BAD DOG” at the top of their lungs but the dog barely acknowledges his owner’s presence much less his anger.

When pressed or called the dog runs around the house as if he is deaf and can’t be caught.

An angry game of dart and evade ensues until the dog owner is exhausted and the dog finally gives up.  At this point there is usually some aggression on the part of the dog owner and so everyone loses!

Does Your Dog Respect the NO command?

For many the answer is “no”.

Why?

You can Only use the NO command if You Catch Your Dog Misbehaving NEVER AFTERWARD!

People overuse the NO command almost more than any other command.  The second most overused command would probably be COME.

When you overuse a command, it begins to lose its meaning!

People say it “No! NO!  Bad Dog!” but nothing really happens.  They don’t make the dog listen, and so therefore the dog learns that these words mean nothing.

The bad thing is eventually the owner gets angry enough to have some follow through but at this point the dog is no longer associating the initial behavior with the reprimand.

The owner hunts the dog down and reprimands him, but leaves the dog totally confused.  You can never reprimand a dog AFTER the behavior, he simply won’t understand!

The only thing the dog really learns is that his owner is scary sometimes and then tries to avoid him when he sees his level of anger escalate.

This avoidance, exacerbates the problem and makes it even worse!  The owner gets angrier and the dog continues to try and avoid and evade his infuriated owner!

You see, dogs aren’t capable of reasoning like we humans are.  A human would say to himself “Gosh, mom is REALLY mad and I am going to have to deal with her sooner or later…sooner will be less agonizing than later.  I am liable to get in more trouble if I don’t come or listen now!”

But a dog doesn’t realize that EVENTUALLY he is going to have to come to you or surrender.  He thinks he can stay away from you forever, or at least until your mood changes.  He doesn’t realize that his behavior is the reason for your rage and with each passing moment it gets worse.

What Do You Do?

First understand from your dog’s point of view and learn to control your anger and your emotions!  We are the “thinking” and “reasoning” animal, we should always be in control of our emotions when it comes to our dogs!  Patience really is a virtue in dog ownership!

Next, change the word or the command.

If your dog totally ignores “NO!” then STOP USING IT and adopt a different command!

I once read a book where the author recommended that a dog’s name be changed if he had had bad experiences from its use or he ignored it completely.  Although I think this is a little extreme in most cases, I also understand that if a command means nothing or something bad when it should be good, it should be changed.

At my house I say Nein (nine) when my dogs do something horrifying and they have been taught to respect this word.

Originally I picked a word that wasn’t normally in my vocabulary.  I didn’t go around shouting “NEIN” in my real world.

So in order to find this word in my regular vocabulary, I had to be pretty frustrated.  I wasn’t going to use it haphazardly or too often.  I was truly irritated when I used this command.

That DOES NOT mean that my anger was going to drive me to hitting or compulsion.  I believe there is never a reason to raise your hand to your dog or use excessive physical force.

What it did mean was that I was willing to go to my dog to change the behavior.  At my house I usually only use this command for aggression; teeth touching me or another animal in my house and so if I use this command I am going to come to you to make sure your behavior stops.

This reliability in the command or word means that my dogs respect the word when they hear it and they immediately STOP showing the behavior in question.

When I trained Service Dogs we had to use the word “Phooey” for the same reason!

“NO” is too easy to use too often, misuse, overuse and often there is no follow up.

Dog training is about consistency!  If you give a command you need to enforce it somehow, whether that is the SIT command or the NO or NEIN or the COME command. If you give a command you need to be capable and willing to change the behavior in question!

Don’t get lazy!  The best way to make sure your dog respects you, listens when you tell him to stop and comes when he is called…is to train with him at least EVERY DAY!  Then listening to you becomes a well-conditioned behavior and he is more likely to do it even during times of stress and excitement!

Do You Own “No! No! Bad Dog”? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Working with a Cheetah! How's that for training experience!!

I love to read!  When I was a baby I got a vaccination that almost took my life.  I am sure my mother was terrified.  I have some memories of lying on the couch very sick.  My mother would read to me for hours, and at that time (before DVDs or VHS…ahhh I hate aging myself) Disney movies came on record.

I would sit and listen to a movie over and over until I had basically memorized it. In some ways I am grateful for all of my experiences they have shaped me and who I am as an adult.  Because of that one shot, my immune system was never quite able to fight off infection and I did get and still get every flu bug that goes around. I grew up loving reading.   Reading was my way to escape into another world and to learn about…well, anything I was interested in at the time.  My mother did not allow video games, and TV was restricted

This love of reading followed me to college when I double majored one being in English.  I still love English Literature (I know I am a nerd).  But, in many ways these are all the reasons you are reading this article right now.  If I grew up playing video games, I probably wouldn’t be writing or reading to entertain myself.

I am able to learn by reading, and I have hundreds of books lining a book shelf to prove it.  I enjoy reading and breaking things down; highlighting important points for further study.

Part of the beginning of my successful dog training career came from reading just about every dog training book I could get my hands on.  Almost 20 years ago it was difficult to find any kind of dog training on VHS or to see anything visually that wasn’t learned at a class or a seminar.

Much of my learning took place at night reading one book and then another.

My FAVORITE Book!

I remember when Karen Pryor came out with “Don’t Shoot the Dog” such a remarkable ground breaking book. I still read it for fun occasionally (party animal that I am).  I recommend that book to anyone who has a dog, is a mother, works with people…well, ANYONE really!

But not everyone likes to read.  My husband (bless his heart) admits that if it is not a popup picture book he is probably not interested in reading it.  I am not sure he has read a book since high school and/or Navy Training and he was forced to do so.  I can say these things because I know he is not going to read this ha ha ha

Don’t get me wrong, he is a smart guy and was E8 Senior Chief Engineer on a destroyer in the Navy.  He actually has much better recall on most factual things than I do; he can tell you each step or how a bill becomes law, the capitals of the states, and all kinds of bizarre history facts.  I pretend to remember these things too, unless put on the spot.

So what happens to those of you who might learn better from a hands on approach to dog training, and other things?

We are introducing instructional dog training videos!  Me and my furry kids have been hitting the grass (no pun intended) and shooting some videos that tackle some of the most basic, and some of the most difficult dog training problems.

Although it is hard for me to keep things to a short minimum while writing or taping (I like hearing myself my husband says), most of the videos are a short 2 to 3 minutes long.

2 to 3 minutes may not seem like long, but it is enough to help you visualize the problem and how to fix it!

It may be difficult to imagine working a dog in “drive”, but it only takes a minute or two to show you how to begin developing drive to utilize your dogs instincts in your obedience training program.  Drive and Focus are two of my favorite aspects about good, competition style obedience.  Often the things I have written articles about, I have also shot instructional videos to help you achieve these goals.

Come Join Us!

We also tackle some of your questions and some of the basic needs everyone has with their dog.

I know, too that there are many readers from around the world, and these videos will help to break down the language barrier for anyone who might struggle.  Visually seeing how to do things will be enough to help you with your dog’s training, problems, or level of exercise and entertainment.

So come check them out at the Dog Training Secret Video Vault and utilize these tips to further your relationship with your dog and your dog training skills.  We guarantee you will enjoy them and you will see a rapid change in your dogs obedience and attitude toward you and training!

The Dog Training Secret’s New Video Vault is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Now, please understand, I am not complaining!  Thinking like a dog makes me a better dog trainer and it helps me to appreciate life from their point of view.  I think everyone should take a few steps into their dog’s mind and realize what it is like to be a dog.

The first thing to do when you and your dog are not seeing eye to eye, is to try and understand life from his perspective!  Not only will this help you to be more considerate of him and his feelings it will also help you to problems solve effectively and efficiently to come up with a plan that can work for you both.

Digging

I hate digging holes!  It doesn’t matter if it’s a small hole or a large hole, digging is hard work; it makes me sore, tired and overheated!  So why does your dog like digging?

Dogs can’t read books or comprehend a good T.V. show, but digging for a dog is just plain FUN!

Your dog’s nose is 1,000 times more powerful than yours, and let’s face it dogs love disgusting stuff, the stinky- “er” the better!  I can only imagine that each new level of dirt smells exciting and like something else.  There are animals that borrow through the ground, insects, and even treasures like buried food and old bones.  I bet the scents of dogs from the past are all throughout the ground, layers of dirt and yard!

Digging for your dog is probably like watching CSI or reading a good psychological thriller is for us, it’s just super stimulating!

Not only are the scents mingling in the dirt fun to sniff, but watching the dirt fly through the air and land in abstract places can also be “super fun”!  One of my best friends has a German Shepherd who absolutely loves to dig, and then she chases the flying dirt.

Bored dogs dig!  Exercise or lessening their time spent outside can help.

Chasing flying dirt and water from the sprinkler can entertain a bored dog; it can also help fulfill some of those herding dog instincts that encourage that chasing behavior and keeping items, flock or people together.

Some dogs are bred to dig up rodents and their instincts could be too much for them to totally deny their instincts!

Digging instincts may need to be addressed by building a sand box and letting your dog dig in a specific area!

Accidents in the House

Sometimes, by default, I think we humans encourage the bad behaviors we are trying to avoid in our dogs.  What happens when your dog potties on the floor in front of you?  Do you scream, rant and rave at him?  Some people kick, yell at or even hit their dogs; and let us not forget the old adage of rubbing the dog’s nose in the spot!  What do you think your dog learns from this type of “teaching”?

He learns that you NEVER want to see him go to the bathroom in front of you, so when you take him outside he doesn’t want to relieve himself in front of you.  He waits with a full bladder until you bring him back in and he can run and hide in another room to relieve himself.  He is terrified to potty in front of you.

He undoubtedly does not associate where he is at “indoors” with the behavior, how can we expect an animal to realize among all things that it is his “surroundings” and his behavior combined are the reason for your rage.  He undoubtedly thinks you are “bi-polar” (if he could understand and relate to that) and is scared when you blow up at him in a frenzy.

Don’t yell!  You may startle your dog if you see him going potty in the house, simply to stop the flow of urine and then get him outside.  Praise your dog for going potty outside!!  NEVER EVER hit, spank, kick or rub your dog’s nose in his mistake!

The other reason is simple if you think about it from your dog’s standpoint.  Going outside is SO MUCH FUN!  There are things to do outside, like sniff, dig, bark, play, chase leaves and just enjoy the weather.  Your dog or puppy goes outside and it is like “fun land” for him.  But, we humans expect them to get down to the business of using the potty and then coming right back inside; we are not known for our patience!  Or, we put them outside by themselves and expect them to go to the potty without watching and instead they chase butterflies, dig up the rose bush, bark at the neighbor dog and otherwise find things to do to entertain themselves.

THEN, we let them back inside and that is when they remember they have to go potty!  He then sneaks off to a secluded room (so you can’t see him and yell..which he doesn’t understand) and he relieves himself.

Go outside with him to make sure he is getting down to business outside!  Allow him time to play outside as well as go potty!

Simple convenience also plays a role when you are beginning potty training, or even later in life.  If it is 10 below zero, torrential raining, or there is snow up to your puppy or dog’s chest it may not be conducive to good potty training!  One of my dogs HATES the heat, so I have to watch her and make sure she goes potty when she goes outside when it is hot!  In her mind, she would just rather squat on the floor in the cool than go out into the baking sun…we call her a vampire because she is so dramatic about the heat and the sun!  I know that about her, so it’s my job to make sure she is successful about getting outside every few hours and before the hottest part of the day!

I don’t think I would want to drop “trou” and pee in 10 below zero or when the rain is driving down!  Make sure you do your best to help your dog be successful with his potty training endeavors by making a path, holding an umbrella or going out when it is warmer or cooler for your dog!

Barking

Thanks for dog behavior tips for the image

How many of you can admit to yourselves that you encourage barking sometimes, because you want your dog to protect your home, but you hate it other times?  Sometimes you reward the behavior and other times you lose your cool when your dog starts barking?

Unless you put the behaviors of barking and quiet on command it is difficult for your dog to be rewarded sometimes and yelled at other times for the same behavior!  Talk about confusing, your dog never knows when you want him to bark and when you don’t!

Do you yell at your dog when he barks? I can only guess that when your dog is barking and you are yelling…he thinks YOU ARE BARKING TOO!  Imagine your dog sees the mail man and begins barking to scare him away…you start yelling at him because you are on the phone but from his perspective maybe he thinks you are mad at the mail man too!

Treating barking by barking back at your dog is never going to work!  It actually perpetuates the behavior.  Dogs often mirror our behavior and our moods, stay calm, quiet and collected and teach your dog the same!

Teach your dog to bark and to be quiet on command!  Teach your dog that he and YOU are in control of his mouth!

These are only a few of the most common problems people encounter with their dogs.  Seeing situations from your dog’s point of view helps you to correct the flaws in your side of the behavior problem or at least helps you to understand your dog from a different perspective.

Although we don’t have to agree with the behaviors and their problems understanding them may help us to be more patient and more sympathetic or empathetic when training and working with our dogs!

The very first thing I do when I recognize a behavior problem with my dog is to try and put myself in his paws and understand it from his perspective.  This empathy and consideration helps me tackle the behaviors from a different point of view and, I believe, helps me to be a better dog trainer and definitely a better dog mom!

Understanding, and empathy leads to kindness and kindness leads to a better overall relationship.  So my advice…learn to think like a dog and see life from their sweet and simple perspective, I know it has made me a better trainer and a better person!  I think I can learn more from them than they could ever learn from me!

Think Like a Dog is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

#5  Crate Training is Your Friend

Utilize a crate and make your life easier.  People who just bring their puppies straight home and allow complete access to the house, have the most trouble with potty training.  Utilize a crate and the process will be easier for you both.

There are many types of crates from indestructible police K9 type crates to mesh crates (although I don’t recommend these for puppies or at the beginning of training).  There is something out there that will help you and your puppy become successful.

#4 Establish a routine

Routines make your job easier and help your new puppy get use to your lifestyle.  If he eats and drinks at about the same time each day, chances are he will urinate and defecate also at the same time each day!

#3 Pick a Specific Spot Outside

Pick a certain place outside in your yard and be sure to take your puppy to it each time you take him outside!  Be sure to go with him and watch him.  It doesn’t matter if it is 100 degrees or 10 below zero; raining or snowing, if you don’t go outside and monitor your puppy you will not know if or when he is going potty outside.

If you leave your puppy out for an hour or two…he will probably have to go potty again soon!  Just because you let him in 10 minutes ago doesn’t mean he went potty right before you let him in!

#2 Supervise

Supervise your puppy at all times.  Supervision means he can’t sneak away and go potty in another room or behind furniture.  It also means that he won’t be chewing on items he shouldn’t or getting into other types trouble.  Supervision is imperative with young puppies!  I recommend an inside tether and keeping him with you at all times, unless he is in his crate!  Although it is a lot of work, it pays off in the end!

#1 It is All About YOU

Stop thinking that potty training is about your puppy!  Potty training is all about you and it is your responsibility when he is young to help him be successful.  Get him outside about every two hours, monitor him outside and when he is inside and be diligent!  Be kind, puppies are like babies, they gain bladder control at different times.  Although you can stop the flow of urine by quietly startling your pup and then getting him outside.  Do not scream or shove his nose in it, be kind so that he will be willing to go outside in front of you.

Sure, accidents happen but if you make it your goal to ensure his success you will both be happy in a short amount of time!

Good luck and as always reward your puppy for correct decisions and doing the right thing and have fun together!  Don’t focus on the mistakes, focus on the positives and moving together toward probably your first big goal!

The Top 5 Things to Remember When Potty Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Does Your Dog or Puppy Urinate Submissively? Thanks to Paws for a Minute for use of the photo.

When you come home does your dog flip belly up and urinate?  Submissive urination can be frustrating!  We all want to come home and be greeted by our excited dogs, but the last thing we want is to be peed on after a long hard day!  Some dogs even urinate excitedly when company comes over to visit!

Why?

Why does your dog show this behavior?  When he shows his belly to you and urinates your dog is signaling to you that he is extremely submissive.  He wants you to know without a shadow of a doubt that you are the pack leader.

Some dogs simply just get so excited, it’s that feeling of being so excited or so nervous you want to pee your pants (every had that feeling?), except your dog is doing just that to the floor and sometimes even on you.

The natural reaction is to get angry and lose your temper or shout.   However, yelling, shouting, or even just assuming that stiff angry body posture can make this problem significantly worse, especially for the next time you return home or have company over!  The more you punish him, the more angry you are the worse the problem will be!

What Can You Do?

The most important thing to remember is that one of the reasons your dog does this is lack of confidence, and so you must build his confidence within the pack.  Build his confidence and treat him gently throughout the day.  If you lose your temper at other times during the day, this only reinforces his fear and need to be submissive for you.   If you feel yourself losing your temper, step out of the room and reevaluate the situation, focus on your breathing and give him something to do that he can be easily successful.

Also when you come home speak gently and do not get over excited.  Ignore him if you have to at first to give him a moment to adjust.  Do not encourage or engage in a loud excitable greeting ritual, or your dog is likely to relapse and urinate.  Be calm and quiet, move slowly and do not reach toward him.

Next get him outside to potty where it is appropriate.  If you can get him outside fast enough, he can relieve himself there first and therefore it sets him up for greater success when he comes inside!  If he does this when you have company, simply have them alert you before a visit so you can get him outside first.

Let your company know this is a training problem and not to get over excited or over exuberant with your dog.  If you have a super boisterous friend coming over, you may allow your dog and your friend a few minutes to settle in before they greet each other.  Dogs often mirror the behavior they are shown, so if you and your company are quiet and calm and ignore the dog, it will help your dog learn to acclimate without becoming overly excited!

Do not reach over the top of his head to pet him.  Dogs can view your hand going over and above their head as scary and dominant behavior, some dogs might be rescued or have been previously abused by someone else.  Pet your dog under his chin and on his chest while you are working on submissive urination.  Don’t bend over the top of the dog, get down on his level and slowly, calmly pet him while quietly speaking to him and avoiding eye contact.

Expect slip ups and plan for them!  This is a difficult behavior to break and it is going to take time.  Your dog is going to make mistakes and slip up.  When he does urinate just ignore the behavior, do not yell do not get upset or frustrated simply exit and clean up the puddle.

Submissive urination can be a common behavior problem, but if it is addressed with calm, quiet, kindness it should disappear within a few weeks!

Help for Submissive Urination! is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Obviously a Dog that is Happily Choosing to Sleep in His Home

Some people will just look at the heading of this article and be emotionally turned off at the idea of “caging” an animal.  Some of you have dealt with the negative connotations of crate training in the past, or have simply all the pessimistic implications and have made up your minds.  I am hoping that today I can change a few minds with some truths about crate training and utilization.

Many dogs are alive, simply because crates allow them to be free from destruction and danger.  Not only are chewer’s euthanized at an alarming rate throughout this country every day thousands of dogs die because of consuming the wrong things.

There are toxins all over the average household, cold and flu medicines, gum, nutmeg, batteries, and plants that are a death sentence for dogs that eat them.

Bored dogs shred sofas and remote controls, they inadvertently swallow underwear, razor blades or batteries.  And, if their owners are lucky these dog will only require expensive and painful obstruction surgery to save their lives.  Obstructions are dangerous and kill dogs every day!  For a look at more check out our other article the 10 Strangest Things Eaten by Dogs.

Dogs with separation anxiety hurl themselves through windows, dig under fences, climb fences and get out only to be hit by cars or picked up and taken by animal control to local shelters.

Crates save lives and if used correctly can calm nervous dogs.  Not to mention they assist in potty training and help calm dogs at the vet and/or the groomer or anywhere else they will potentially be crated in the future.

Everything can be abused, and I realize that everything has side effects.  I have seen dogs with buckle collars that have grown into their skin and I know there are people who don’t believe in vaccines for people or animals, but you have to weigh the risks.

Most people don’t crate their dogs for 20 hours a day, most people have common sense, however there are some people who abuse animals and over crating is occurs.  However, if you are reading this, chances are you are not in the population of animal abusers.

Not Crating Can Lead to Personal Damage and Doggy Surgery or Even Death

Crates provide safety, for the dog and for your things.  They provide many people with a much needed break from puppyhood and an insurance of safety while they are away.  For your dog, they give him his own space a place to go and relax and a place to get away from other animals, kids, or company.  A crate should be your dog’s home away from home, or home inside a home.

Dogs are den animals and as such they like the enclosed feeling and safety that a crate provides.   Some dogs like wire crates, some like plastic crates.  However, most dogs must be taught that their crate is a safe haven and a place to relax.

In the beginning crate training may seem difficult and your dog probably won’t like it.  He may protest and cry each time he is put in his crate or even howl or scream.  But for most dogs the duration is short, if the behavior is not rewarded.  If however the human comes running and lets the screaming dog out of the crate he is taught to scream louder and longer the next time.

Most people make the mistake of taking their new dogs or puppies and  immediately closing them into the crate sometimes for extended periods, but this can make acclimation more difficult.

The crate should be taken apart if it is plastic and broken down into a half where treats and toys can be placed and the crate can be explored.  Metal crates can have their doors propped open and blankets laid down while treats and toys are tossed inside (never leave a blanket with a dog unattended or it may get shredded and swallowed).

The door, ideally, should never be closed until the dog is comfortable and is happily going in and out of the crate regularly.

I recommend clicker training and clicking when the dog enters initially and then teaching the dog that the longer he stays the more clicking and rewards can be accumulated.

Once acclimated to his new digs, you can swing the door shut behind him (not latching it yet) and click.  As his comfort level rises you can expect him to stay for a longer period of time.

Once you feel comfortable that he is enjoying this new game you may begin closing the door and latching it.  Click as soon as you latch the door and then take a treat and drop it at the back of the crate.  If he stays without panic, click and reward for a few moments or minutes depending on the tolerance level.

Next the game becomes to rush into the crate, and sit at the back and wait to be clicked and rewarded.  The crate should be a place of games and fun.

At this point I begin to introduce music to the environment.  I always recommend leaving the radio or television on while you are gone and this gets him use to the stimulation while you are still playing the game.  He should be going into the crate and going to the back and sitting or laying down and waiting for you to reward.  You may now begin extending the time that it takes you to deliver this reward extending for longer and longer until he seems comfortable with waiting.  He knows it’s coming!

Next, start to leave the room but come back quickly and often to reward.  If you see apprehension you can discontinue the training session after a happy, easy command like sit and begin again later.

Continue to work on having him sit or lay in the back of the crate while you leave for different intervals of time until you can easily leave him for several minutes without any signs of distress.  If he does bark or whine, do not return to him until he is quiet.  He must realize that only being silent will elicit a response from you.

Then teach I him to sit and stay at the back of the crate while I open the door.  I don’t want a dog that bum rushes me when I open the door and could potentially knock me or a child down.  I continue to click and reward as long as he stays in position when the door is opened.  Then I give him a release command so that he may calmly exit.

Continue this training until you can leave him for extended periods of time.  Continue to go back in and reward with treats at the back of the kennel for good behavior and also when the crate door is opened.  As you reach success you can leave him without stress, knowing that he is happy to be in his home.

This is a good way to teach puppies and adult dogs and even dogs that have had former trauma in crates, however the later may take longer to desensitize to the new environment.

Always leave the radio or some music on and make it a fun experience.

Don’t leave a dog for more than 8 hours or so, and illicit some help from neighbors, family and friends to come and let him out during the day if needed.  It is better to crate a dog and pay a neighbor to attend to him, than to risk his death or injury!

Aluminum Crate, Worth Every Dime!

Some people say their dogs break out of crates.  I respond by saying: there are aluminum, indestructible dog crates that even Houdini dog couldn’t break out of!  They are made specifically for hard to contain dogs and they even resist injury.  They are expensive but so is the thousands of dollars of damage a dog can do!  They are cheaper than one obstruction surgery and they are worth it if you need it!

With some positive reinforcement and some crate related games you can overcome almost any dog’s fears about being in a crate.

The Joys of Crate Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Want to Hang This Sign In Your House?

I have had a few requests lately from people who are waking up to find “surprise packages” for them on the floor in the morning, and need some help.

First to make this clear this article is geared toward dogs that don’t have potty training issues during the day or are mostly potty trained.  For those of you having general potty training issues I will get to that in another article.

I am a HUGE proponent of crate training, and again at another time we will discuss why!  Crate training will undoubtedly fix the issue of dogs that get up and have accidents at night, because it eliminates their ability to get away and potty on the floor.  I recommend putting the crate next to you while you sleep so you can hear your dog wake up and become restless if they truly need to go out at night.

However, I am hearing from most of you that you are prematurely enjoying the company of your dog on the bed with you at night!  I say premature, because I believe sleeping on the bed is a privilege and should only happen if you dog has no dominance issues toward you or your family and only if your dog is completely and reliably potty trained.

But…changing human behavior and the desires of people is often more difficult than just giving some advice that may make you both happy.  If these recommendations don’t work, I do suggest going back to square one and crate training until your dog is sleeping quite successfully throughout the night and there are no daytime accidents!

First and foremost, change the time that you are feeding your dog and do NOT give treats at night or in the evening.  I recommend not feeding your dog after 5 p.m. and taking the water up an hour or two before bedtime.  However this is contingent upon your schedule and your bedtime; you will have to make the appropriate adjustments.  This should encourage elimination before bed.

Outside is the Only Place to Go!

Next and even MORE IMPORTANT is EXERCISE!!!  If your dog is exhausted, chances are he won’t wake up in the middle of the night and go exploring.  Exercise also encourages pooping and gets the bowels moving.  So go on a walk, or play some games before bed to ensure that he is truly tired!

Then if you are not going to use a crate, try at least shutting your bedroom door.  Make the environment smaller.  Dogs, especially smaller dogs, have no problem going into another room to poop because they can easily “escape” the package they just left and it doesn’t bother them.  If their environment is smaller (the door to the room closed) they might be uncomfortable pooping in the same room they sleep in.

If you must use a tether or a leash, use a body harness.  I have tethered dogs before while sleeping, but I always have the leash attached to me (wrist or ankle), so that I will wake up if it is yanked too hard.  Make sure that the leash leaves ample room for your dog to get off the bed and wander a few feet on the floor, we don’t want your dog to strangle or to get wrapped up in the leash and get injured.  NEVER use a collar; only use a harness, otherwise your dog could strangle or his neck may snap.  Tethering is always a risk, but less so if you use a harness and it is attached to you.   This is only a temporary fix until your dog stops getting up at night!

Ultimately, if you are having issues, restrict his food at night, exercise him so that he will eliminate prior to going to bed and so that he will be tired and sleep through the night, and close your bedroom door to make the environment smaller and less conducive to accidents.  Then sleep with one eye open and soon your dog should form the habits to sleep through the night and get on the right track!

Suffering from Doggy Accidents at Night? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Set Your New Puppy up for Success

My dogs are getting older, one is 10 and the other is 8 and I realized at the beginning of this year as I trained for a 5 mile race (not a 5k) I had no dog to train or run with because my dogs are too old to run so far, so I recently got a puppy.  Actually I picked her up on Sunday!  I forgot just how much work and effort a new little life is,  but it reminds me of the importance of setting your puppies up for success in the very beginning of life.

Before Your Puppy Comes Home

• Puppy proof your house!!!  You would baby proof your house if you had a toddler or a baby over, why would you not puppy proof things!  Pick up shoes and expensive items, put things in safe places, and make sure medications and cleaners are out of reach.
• Get a toy box for your baby and stock it FULL of a variety of items.  Puppies are tactile like babies they like to play with numerous types of toys so give them an opportunity to explore their environment the only way they can, with their mouths and teeth!  This will help them not use their teeth on you
• Buy a crate for crate training, one that will grow with your puppy as he grows.  If you are unable to come home and let your puppy out every few hours, specify a space i.e. kitchen, laundry room, bathroom for your puppy until he gains bladder control and can be crated for longer periods of time.

Potty Training

• I have had her for three days and at 8 weeks we have yet to have an accident around the house or anywhere else!
• Potty training for a puppy of 8 weeks is all about ME it isn’t even about her.  She is too young to be expected to hold her bladder for long or to alert me to her needs so it is my responsibility to get her outside about every 2 hours and after naps or eating or drinking or raucous play.  I have to monitor her food and water intake and gauge how often she will need to relieve herself.
• When she is outside, I keep her on a leash so that I can watch where she is going and what she is doing and how much volume is coming out.  Sometimes she gets distracted and I have to get her up and move her around in order to change her mind set.   Often she would rather pounce and play and put her mouth on everything instead of going potty, so I just move around the yard until she gets the idea and then I bring her inside when she is finished.

Setting Up for Success Around the House

• From the moment she stepped into this house she has been on a leash.  Keeping her on a long leash or long line prevents her from sneaking away and having an accident and it also keeps her from doing all kinds of other naughty behaviors.
• Although she has been great with the kids ages 2 to 15, when she does get out of control and wants to bite pants or hands and legs, I already have her on a leash and can prevent her from continuing these naughty behaviors.   I can redirect her energy toward her toys and interact with her in a healthy way.
• Having her on a leash also prevents her from chewing things that she shouldn’t  or things that might be dangerous for her.  Her leash is either attached to me or attached to a heavy piece of furniture (8ft leash or long line) in the room I am in, so I notice the moment her sharp little teeth grab something they shouldn’t have grabbed.  It also prevents her from grabbing naughty objects (underwear ha ha) and dashing around the house evading apprehension.  This evasion game is a favorite for most dogs but by keeping her under control and close she doesn’t even realize this game exists.
• This also helps with early training, it is never too early to begin training.  Keeping your dog on a leash and close to you gives him the manners he needs early in life to make a good pet and this keeps him from establishing problem behaviors that need to be fixed at a later date.  If she is on a leash, I am not going to let her, chase the cat, grab food from the table, jump up on me etc.  Doesn’t it make more sense to teach your pup correct principles from the start?  Don’t WAIT till there is a problem, curb the problems from ever rearing their ugly heads!

Socialization

• I have a very short period of time to socialize her to as many people and things as possible before she starts to form opinions about everything on her own.  Puppies who are not socialized early are dealt such a disservice.  Puppies and children are capable of learning and experiencing more while they are young, if you wait too long the window of opportunity closes and it becomes a much more difficult process.
• Get your puppy out and start socializing.  Keep in mind that your puppy is not safe from diseases until they are 16 weeks or so and have received their last set of boosters and the rabies vaccination so do not socialize in unknown or uncontrolled areas or with unknown dogs!
• You can, however, start socializing your puppy with sociable dogs that you know and you know are well vaccinated.  Not all dogs like puppies, puppies can be quite irritating to older and geriatric dogs so use caution and set up play dates with dogs that are known to be good with puppies.
• Start socializing your pup with all shapes, sizes, ages and colors of people.  Puppies need to be introduced to all varieties of people, especially children and people who might be interpreted as different.  This early socialization forms a strong foundation for your dog as it grows to be accepting of people from all walks of life.  They should get use to seeing people with hats on and people who limp etc. so they accept differences in people as normal.
• It is also essential to get them use to a variety of noises and environmental challenges.  I often like to sit outside of my local Wal-Mart with my pup on my lap so they can watch people and carts coming and going and get use to the normal sounds and spice of life.

This early socialization is crucial to a well rounded out going dog!

You have a lot of work to do, and so do I!  Get your puppy out and set him up for success.  It is our responsibility as doggy parents to make certain that we are setting our dogs up for becoming the best pets possible!  Dogs are and investment in not only money but also time, effort and emotional bonding, we owe it to ourselves and to them to give them the skills they need to thrive.

Puppies 101 is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog