Someone Reluctant to Crate Train?

Recently I have had a few questions about those of you that have crate whiners!

I HATE whining!  I can almost tolerate full out barking before I can tolerate the sound of whining.  I guess it is the pitch and my tendency toward migraines but whining is one of my biggest pet peeves, so I completely understand!

But, it is important to understand crate training from your dog’s stand point before we go much further!

What it’s Like for Your Dog

Most whining and crying comes from our puppies when we try to crate train them.  Understand that they come from a world where they lived with their mom and their littermates in a fairly confined space.  They have never really experienced being all ALONE and it can be kind of scary, at first.

Dogs are den animals, that is true, so acclimating to a crate is somewhat natural for dogs, however they are never “locked” in their dens.  This inability to get our takes some acclimation and the understanding that nothing bad is going to happen to them in this new environment.

Most of our pets are spoiled.  We take our dogs with us and spend lots of time with them, catering to their every need; so they can be taken aback when we lock them up and leave them alone.

Crates are CRITICAL

But, crates are essential to the safety of your dog and your “stuff”.   Read more about why to use a crate and crate games here in my article The Joys of Crate Training.

I will always crate train my dogs.  It makes them easier to travel with, because their home can travel with them, and it helps them with separation anxiety and anxiety at the groomer and the vet hospital.  At some point almost ALL dogs will have to be crated or caged somewhere.  Just last week I had to drop my dog off for x-rays and I know she was put in a kennel to await her turn!

So it is crucial not to give up!  Remember it is normal for your dog to protest and how you deal with these protests will set you up for a lifetime of loud protests if you are not careful!

What Do You Do?

Crate Training will Save you From this Destruction!

First and foremost is to acclimate your puppy or dog to the crate to the best of your ability.

Also play crate games!  The more you can make the crate a fun place the less stress and screaming you are going to get when you leave your or puppy in it!

Good training and the important things in your dog’s life take time!  Don’t just shove your dog in and lock the door and hope he will be okay.  Chances are this would be traumatic for him.

Find an extra great treat, like a sterile cow bone or Kong stuffed with peanut butter or chicken flavor; freeze it and make it a special crate treat.  It must be safe enough to leave with your puppy or dog alone.  So, make sure he can’t get large pieces off of it or shred it.

I never leave a blanket with a dog that is not crate trained.  He could consume it and need abdominal surgery to have it removed.

These special crate treats should ONLY come out when he is in his crate NEVER when he is with you or just around the house.  This makes his crate exciting and him happy to see you leave.  If he has access to the same treat all of the time or at other frequent times it doesn’t make the crate special.

Leave a radio on and make it LOUD.  We live in a world of constant noise and media.  Many of us live in an environment full of noise, the TV, computer, kids screaming, people talking, music playing…but when we leave our dogs alone we leave them in a quiet and sterile environment.  This is not something they are use to and it can be scary alone!  Help them feel like they are in their normal environment by leaving the radio or TV on for them.

Loud background sounds also block the sound of the mailman, delivery man, or other strange noises.  It can also help to calm a puppy in his while you putter around the house and get things done.  But if you leave that puppy alone in his crate and proceed to make noises he can hear, he is more likely to resist vocally!

At night I believe in keeping the crate next to my bed.  I think it is crucial for my dogs to hear that I am right next to them breathing and moving around.  Remember your puppy is use to hearing his littermates, he needs to hear some familiar sounds.  If he stirs in the middle of the night I can hear him and take him outside.  But if he cries, whimpers, or whines when I put him in there I can tap on the side of the crate and tell him to be quiet.  This stops the whimper from escalating to a howl.

Never ever break the cardinal rule!

The cardinal rule, you ask?

Puppies Should Love their Crates!

Don’t Let a Screaming Dog or Puppy Win!

You must teach your dog that in order to get out of his crate he must be quiet!  This is essential!

Dogs are much more strong willed than we are, so if he screams for 2 hours straight and you go to let him out he will object even more adamantly the next time you put him in and 3 or 4 hours will be nothing.

By letting out a dog that is throwing a fit, you are basically saying “YES! Please throw a fit when you want something”.  And you are much more likely to see this behavior anytime he doesn’t want to do something.  He will begin to scream when you leave him alone in the car, or alone in your home, or if he doesn’t want his nails trimmed.  You have taught him that fit throwing and screaming to gets him what he wants.

Instead, you must teach him that being quiet is what you want.  If he wants out of his crate he must be quiet, this teaches him impulse control and that he doesn’t get everything that he wants when he wants it.  Impulse control is fundamental to good dog training.

Tricks

Exhausted dogs and puppies are too tired to scream.  If I have a dog that is a screamer or likely to throw a fit, I will wear him out prior to his crate stay!  Play ball, run him next to your bike, or take him for a hike and as he begins to drift off slip him into his crate.

I have had screaming puppies!  I had a 6 week old puppy that screamed for nearly 4 hours one night but I didn’t let him win.  I lost a night’s sleep, but it was better than losing several nights sleep or worrying about squishing a puppy in my bed!

Your Dog's Crate Should be his Favorite Spot!

Shorter sessions are better.  This makes sense but if you leave a dog for 8 hours that can be hard to adjust.  If however you do 10 minutes when he is exhausted, with a safe chew bone, and end on a happy note you will ease into crate training much easier!   Make sure he is tired before bedtime!

If rapping on the crate doesn’t work to quiet my puppies or being by the bed doesn’t seem to help them feel better, I try moving the crate as far away from my bedroom as possible so they can scream without bothering me.  I can later bring the crate back into my room, but this allows me to get some sleep.

I have even moved crates to my air conditioned office that was located in my garage.  I have let quite a few dogs scream it out.  Once I know they aren’t going to hurt themselves, I let them throw a fit.  This is like a child throwing a tantrum, if you give in it only gets worse.  As long as they are safe, let them learn that fit throwing will get them nowhere.

At some point you may have to let a screaming puppy out to potty and we know you can’t break the cardinal rule…so how do you win?

You make a distracting noise and get ready to praise a quiet puppy.  If you can’t wait for them to fall asleep and then surprise them, then make a strange noise and when they pause run down and reinforce quietness.

But overall make it as positive and fun as you possibly can!  There are going to be some fits, that is normal but how you deal with them is the most important!  Remember you are the stronger smarter animal

Got a Crate Squawker? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Is This Your Dog?

I work with a lot of clients and most of them suffer from this syndrome.  Their dog does something wrong and they shout “NO” or “BAD DOG” at the top of their lungs but the dog barely acknowledges his owner’s presence much less his anger.

When pressed or called the dog runs around the house as if he is deaf and can’t be caught.

An angry game of dart and evade ensues until the dog owner is exhausted and the dog finally gives up.  At this point there is usually some aggression on the part of the dog owner and so everyone loses!

Does Your Dog Respect the NO command?

For many the answer is “no”.

Why?

You can Only use the NO command if You Catch Your Dog Misbehaving NEVER AFTERWARD!

People overuse the NO command almost more than any other command.  The second most overused command would probably be COME.

When you overuse a command, it begins to lose its meaning!

People say it “No! NO!  Bad Dog!” but nothing really happens.  They don’t make the dog listen, and so therefore the dog learns that these words mean nothing.

The bad thing is eventually the owner gets angry enough to have some follow through but at this point the dog is no longer associating the initial behavior with the reprimand.

The owner hunts the dog down and reprimands him, but leaves the dog totally confused.  You can never reprimand a dog AFTER the behavior, he simply won’t understand!

The only thing the dog really learns is that his owner is scary sometimes and then tries to avoid him when he sees his level of anger escalate.

This avoidance, exacerbates the problem and makes it even worse!  The owner gets angrier and the dog continues to try and avoid and evade his infuriated owner!

You see, dogs aren’t capable of reasoning like we humans are.  A human would say to himself “Gosh, mom is REALLY mad and I am going to have to deal with her sooner or later…sooner will be less agonizing than later.  I am liable to get in more trouble if I don’t come or listen now!”

But a dog doesn’t realize that EVENTUALLY he is going to have to come to you or surrender.  He thinks he can stay away from you forever, or at least until your mood changes.  He doesn’t realize that his behavior is the reason for your rage and with each passing moment it gets worse.

What Do You Do?

First understand from your dog’s point of view and learn to control your anger and your emotions!  We are the “thinking” and “reasoning” animal, we should always be in control of our emotions when it comes to our dogs!  Patience really is a virtue in dog ownership!

Next, change the word or the command.

If your dog totally ignores “NO!” then STOP USING IT and adopt a different command!

I once read a book where the author recommended that a dog’s name be changed if he had had bad experiences from its use or he ignored it completely.  Although I think this is a little extreme in most cases, I also understand that if a command means nothing or something bad when it should be good, it should be changed.

At my house I say Nein (nine) when my dogs do something horrifying and they have been taught to respect this word.

Originally I picked a word that wasn’t normally in my vocabulary.  I didn’t go around shouting “NEIN” in my real world.

So in order to find this word in my regular vocabulary, I had to be pretty frustrated.  I wasn’t going to use it haphazardly or too often.  I was truly irritated when I used this command.

That DOES NOT mean that my anger was going to drive me to hitting or compulsion.  I believe there is never a reason to raise your hand to your dog or use excessive physical force.

What it did mean was that I was willing to go to my dog to change the behavior.  At my house I usually only use this command for aggression; teeth touching me or another animal in my house and so if I use this command I am going to come to you to make sure your behavior stops.

This reliability in the command or word means that my dogs respect the word when they hear it and they immediately STOP showing the behavior in question.

When I trained Service Dogs we had to use the word “Phooey” for the same reason!

“NO” is too easy to use too often, misuse, overuse and often there is no follow up.

Dog training is about consistency!  If you give a command you need to enforce it somehow, whether that is the SIT command or the NO or NEIN or the COME command. If you give a command you need to be capable and willing to change the behavior in question!

Don’t get lazy!  The best way to make sure your dog respects you, listens when you tell him to stop and comes when he is called…is to train with him at least EVERY DAY!  Then listening to you becomes a well-conditioned behavior and he is more likely to do it even during times of stress and excitement!

Do You Own “No! No! Bad Dog”? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Does your Dog Stare at what He wants?

The other day I found myself, staring blankly around my kitchen.  I guess I am getting old, because as with numerous other times I had forgotten what I was doing!

As I glanced around trying to get my bearings, my pupils caught the pupils of my oldest dog.  He is 12 and my very, very best friend, dare I say my furry soul mate?  He commonly follows me from room to room and I rarely am capable of completing any task without his help, or so he thinks (and I am afraid I agree)!

As my gaze matched his, I watched him very consciously look very lovingly from me…to the top of our refrigerator.

I giggled a little and acted totally brainless.  As I waited, to see what he would do, he very calmly caught my eyes and even more slowly turned his head to stare at the top of my refrigerator, languishing there for a moment or two before again glancing back to my face.

I must admit I found him completely endearing and totally hilarious.  You see, I keep my dog treats on top of the fridge.  This was his way of calmly, quietly asking for a treat, AND it must work!

I quietly asked him “What do you want” and again he slowly pivoted his head toward his awaiting treats.  By now, since I had engaged him in conversation, he was drooling in apprehension.

This got me to thinking…  As skilled as he was at getting me to deliver a treat (and yes, I admit I did give him one because his request was so quiet, calm and intelligent) I wonder what else he has trained me to do for him!

You see, I think we are the inferior species when it comes to dog training!  I believe they are much, much better trainers than we are! They are more patient, more insistent and less distracted than most of us!  Most of all dogs are incredibly consistent! Could you scream in a crate for 2 hours straight?

Dogs learn very quickly what behaviors we like and what behaviors we don’t and what behaviors get them the most interaction.  What behaviors reward them and what behaviors don’t.  Make no mistake about it; sometimes those are not related.  In fact sometimes dogs choose naughty behavior simply to get some kind of interaction from us because inadvertently we reward them when we don’t mean to!

AND, sometimes naughty, bad, deplorable behaviors are reinforcing!

Whenever I have a behavior problem or a struggle in my dog training, I ask myself “What is my dog getting out of this?”

This is the root to good dog training and understanding dog behavior.

When there is a problem, whether it be a human or dog related problem the person or dog is getting something out of the behavior.

In order to find a solution we must determine what the “payoff” is and if we are looking to change a behavior we must deny the subject the payoff they are use to or that they desire!

Does your Dog Steal?

For instance, I often hear of people who complain that their dogs steal objects, show their owners, and then dash off around the house for a fun game of “cat and mouse”.

The bad behavior: Stealing

The payoff:  The “chase” game, where the owners scream profanities, throw objects, cry and run around chasing the dog, is in fact the dog’s favorite game!  What could be more fun for your dog than a game that you will probably NEVER win (because you simply aren’t quick or agile enough to catch him)?  AND, it is completely interactive!  This is why your dog steals and often shows you the stolen article before darting off.

So, in order to change the bad behavior: Stealing…you must prevent the behavior or change or cease the pay off.   More on this problem in this article “Teaching your Thief to Retrieve” 

It doesn’t matter what the bad behavior is: stealing food, barking, jumping on people, having accidents on the floor, aggression; there is a payoff for your dog.

As the more intellectual animal you need to figure it out and decide how to change the behavior.

My ability to do so has often been the precursor to people saying I am part dog.   In order to conquer dog behavior, you must put yourself in his paws and “Think like a Dog” 

My challenge to you is to observe your world, watch what you are doing with and for your dog and ask yourself who is the better trainer in your home; you or your dog?

Do You End up Chasing Your Dog?

What do You do About it? 

The first step to true change is to acknowledge the problem.

Once you realize how YOU have been trained you can begin the re-training or the reorganization of your relationship with your dog.

Are you “Rewarding the Wrong Behavior”?

My dog, would personally like me to be a human PEZ dispenser!  Like all “animals” he would like to get everything in his life and in his world for free or at the very slightest with the least expelled energy as possible.

I don’t mean to dash everyone’s feelings about dogs, but they don’t care about pleasing you, unless of course in some way it pleases them.

We are all out for ourselves in the end.  The point is to make sure that what pleases you is what positively affects your dog!  Simple as that!

Will my senior dog continue to seek my gaze in the hopes of staring at the things he wants in life?  ABSOULTELY!  Especially since I rewarded him with what he desired the last time he did it, but in the scheme of things I didn’t feel this was a negative behavior.

However, I know that many of you are suffering from some nasty behavior problems and because of that I admonish you, step back and look at the big picture.  Take notes if you have to and make a list of the possible payoffs for your dog and only then can you begin to change that behavior!

Who’s Training Whom at Your House? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Even back then, I use to see some of my clients (in my head) as he was counseling people.  He would ask a question, they would answer but then try to defend their behavior or their choices.

When given advice, they would often answer… “I tried, that doesn’t work, he won’t like it” and time after time they would try to defend their behavior or convince him to see the superiority in their thinking.

It was usually at about that time that he would interject… “So, how’s that workin’ for ya?”

This simple statement reiterates that the flawed behavior is NOT working and therefore there is a need for true and whole hearted change.

If something is working out efficiently, then there is no need for change.  But, when you are having tribulations you need to break down the actions and determine where things are flawed so that you can make a change.

The definition of insanity, as defined by Albert Einstein, is “Doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.”

As a dog trainer, I run into this psychology or “insanity” all of the time.  People want their dog to “change” but they don’t want to exert any effort and they certainly see no need to change their behavior!

I was always happy to realize that it wasn’t just my clients who behave this way; these people were on TV arguing with the renowned doctor and expert that they were seeking advice from!  When I look at it that way, my feathers get a little less ruffled.

I have to admit it is usually people that are dealing with aggression or other severe behavior problems that want to do the most arguing.  I guess because serious behavior problems require the most work and effort, and often take the longest to see suitable results.

The problem is: I don’t have a magic wand.  I can’t come to your house and totally transform your dog for you in one sitting with no effort wielded by you.  It just isn’t possible; in the real non-TV world.

Like any other prevalent behavior that requires strict change; I think sometimes people need to hit their own rock bottom.  The problem with that rock bottom often ends with a bite, exorbitant damage and the ultimate euthanasia of the dog.

I am hoping to save some doggy lives and some people bites by pleading with dog owners who have dogs that are suffering from severe behavior problems to be willing to make some tough changes.

What Can You Do?

• The first step is to admit honestly that you have a problem
• The next step is to determine what you are willing to do about it?

Are you willing to do anything to save your dog?

Or are you unwilling to make proper change?

• The next is to determine WHY or what else is contributing to the ultimate problem
• Change takes total commitment and lots and lots of effort.
• You may need to retry something you gave up on too quickly!
• You have no idea how often I have heard “He doesn’t like it”… or “I put the Gentle Leader on, but he didn’t like it….”  Really?  No dog “likes” it at first; it requires effort to acclimate your dog to it!
• Behavior modification is often a slow and tedious process, and sometimes prevention needs to be inserted into the program by controlling aggressive dogs and keeping bites from having a chance of happening.
• Positive reinforcement, although it may take a longer time build a firm foundation, needs to be used.
• Do not fall prey to the dazzle and dramatization of forceful and barbaric methods of compulsion seen on TV.  Although the behavior may seem to evaporate, I guarantee the TV cameras are not there to see it reappear or see the additional behavior problems it creates!

I recently watched a TV episode where the dog trainer grabbed a trash can lid and a stick and slowly chased the fearful aggressive dog that had been biting people, into a corner and intimidated it until FINALLY it relented in exhaustion (panting and looking frantic) and accepted the trainer’s presence.

Later when the dog growled at the trainer while on leash, he was kicked in the ribs; as the dog trainer explained to rid him of “negative energy”; then he was fashioned with a shock collar and his brain was fried for an additional aggressive behavior.  By the end of the show, of course, the dog had been cured and allowed the trainer (and I am sure we are to assume others) onto his property.

We were shown very little training, actual energy, and follow through that his owners would have to do; as magically he seemed cured of his demons.

But, when the trainer and the camera crews are gone which delivery person or Girl Scout is willing to pick up a sword and shield and chase the unrestrained dog down if he barks in a threatening manner?  And, if they did (not knowing dog behavior like a professional trainer does) wouldn’t they likely be bitten?

Sure, I could chase dogs down and give them a kick to the ribs; but I refuse.  Aggression should not be treated by aggression and not everyone is capable of doing this type of work without getting bitten.  It seems quick and its flashy but it is irresponsible and doesn’t tackle the problem; it usually eventually exacerbates it (as the dog realizes not everyone has follow through or will use aggression) and it creates more problems in the end.  I am surprised more people are not mauled after treating a powerful dog this way!

First I would instruct the owner to fence the yard (preferably wood or other visually impenetrable fence) to safely contain the dog to keep it and people who wander up out of harm’s way.

Dogs, especially aggressive ones, should also be kept inside when owners are gone.  Control cannot be attained while owners are away and total change and breaking the cycle of aggression is imperative!

Behavior modification would be slow but would include the owner desensitizing the dog on leash and giving it something else to do (obedience) when people approach.  The dog would be increasingly rewarded for quiet and nonaggressive behavior.

Visitors would be instructed to toss wonderful treats to the dog when he was quiet and to avoid eye contact.  Speaking to a fearful aggressive dog and petting would be totally avoided in the beginning until it could be determined that both dog and human would be completely safe and acceptant.

Change is a Good Thing with Behavior Modification

Positive reinforcement is not as showy or glamorous to the onlooker but it is so much more effective, humane and safer for everyone!

Ultimately don’t fall for the tricks or the lure of an easy fix!  And, when your dog has a behavior problem commit to true change, don’t just jump to “that doesn’t work or he doesn’t like it” give it a heartfelt try as long as it is not dangerous to anyone involved.   Of course he “doesn’t like it” you are taking him and yourself out of your comfort zones!  This abandonment of comfort and the apprehensiveness it creates is a product of change.

Change isn’t easy, if it was we wouldn’t face it kicking and screaming all of the time…it is uncertain and leads us to feel uneasy, but when you have a sincere problem true change is essential!

“How’s That Workin’ For Ya?” The Need for Change in Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Snarling Puppies can make Dangerous Dogs

Some puppies learn early in their development to guard the resources they receive, or their littermates might take them.   They guard food, toys, treats, chewies and even affection by snarling, growling, and even biting.  This guarding behavior often extends into their new homes.

The problem begins when these bullies enter a home with humans and especially those with young children.  They must be taught impulse control and not to guard whatever they value.   It is imperative to start this training while the puppy is young, if this behavior continues past adolescence it can be become extremely dangerous.

I remember hearing a story about resource guarding that still makes my hair stand on end.

On thanksgiving the grandmother of the family took the turkey out of the oven and put it on the counter to cool before dinner was to be served.

The family dog immediately came into the kitchen and began sniffing around and investigating the turkey.  At some point he decided the turkey belonged to him.

Therefore, when the grandmother returned to retrieve the turkey for dinner, he attacked her.  Her wounds were so significant that she had to go to the hospital for stitches.

The dog had always been a resource guarder, no one had ever tried to correct or deal with the problem they just left him alone when he was eating or playing with a toy.  They didn’t realize that by ignoring the problem and letting him have everything he wanted they were exacerbating the problem and he was getting more and more aggressive.  The grandmother probably never even saw it coming before it was too late, and I am sure the dog was appalled that grandma would DARE take HIS turkey!

It is vital to start this training with young puppies.  Waiting until your puppy is older or working with an adult dog can be dangerous and will probably take a different

Puppies should be Taught Trust and Enjoy Chewing Around Family Members

training style and method.  Puppies 6 months and younger are slightly safer and a little less likely to bite and do damage; however if you feel you are at risk please do not do anything where you might incur a bite!!

NEVER involve young children with any dog or puppy that resource guards.  This behavior should first be dealt with and controlled by adults.  Children cannot read dog body language like adults can, and so often they get severely bitten, or even mauled.  Never leave your children alone with a dog or puppy that is possessive or guards anything.  Imagine a 2 year old chasing down and trying to take away her Barbie that the puppy has stolen…this could end very tragically when children and dogs are not monitored closely!

That being said, I like feeding my resource guarding puppies from my hands so that they associate food and all the good things in life coming directly from me.  I will also hold their rawhides or chewies as they are chewing on them so I am close to them as they are chewing.   This helps them to realize that I am not a threat and they get use to my presence while they chew.  I will not allow them to take a toy, chewie, or treat and run into another room it eat it!

If they handle that well, I put my fist into their bowl and they have to eat around it.  If the puppy is serious about resource guarding I do not recommend this there is no need to get bitten and there are easier ways of getting them to accept your presence in and around their food…even if it is a longer process.

If your puppy is not a resource guarder, I still recommend putting your fist in his bowl.  Get use to handling him while he is eating, playing with a toy or chewing on something.  This, again, is not for children.  But I recommend that adults touch their puppies while they are doing all of these things.  Get them use to hands in their faces and pushing them out of the way of their toys and treats.  Touch their tails, near their eyes and their paws.  DO NOT do this if your puppy growls, snarls, stiffens, or tries to bite.

Attitude and Aggression Must Not be Tolerated, even from the Cutest Faces

If you have a puppy that growls, snarls, stiffens, gives you the evil eye, or tries to bite as you approach when he possesses something he wants, he needs to be taught that releasing his valued object is in his best interests and he will be rewarded for doing so!

I once heard a friend say taking something from your puppy all of the time makes him feel like YOU are the bully.  He seemingly never gets anything good out of it.

If a bully on the playground ran up and hit another large child in the face and stole his cookie every day the second child may eventually get defensive and fight back.  You would be able to see his body language change as the bully approached while he was eating.  But, if that same bully ran up and instead offered the child a brownie or a sundae (something that had a higher value) chances are an exchange would happily take place.

We need to teach our puppies that a better exchange is about to take place, so that they will happily drop any item they might grab.  To do this, at first I don’t recommend that they be eating or chewing on anything.  They simply need to associate the command with good things and treats being tossed on the floor.

Again I must reiterate:  at first I recommend they are not eating or chewing on anything. 

Step 1: I walk up to a puppy (that is just sitting there laying down or chewing on nothing) and as I say “Drop It” I toss a handful of treats down on the floor just to the right or to the left of him.  The toss should be just enough to get the puppy up off of his spot and make him move.

He will soon begin to associate the command “Drop It” with wonderful treats being tossed to the floor, instead of tensing up or stiffening because he thinks you are about to steal his toy or his treat or whatever he might have stolen.

When you can see that he now enjoys the command and is eagerly looking for tossed treats, it is time to move to step 2.

Step 2: is to wait until he is chewing on or playing with something he finds only slightly entertaining (nothing too exciting or yummy), walk up to him and say “Drop It” as you toss the treats to the left or right of him making him get up and walk over to them.  It is crucial at this point DO NOT touch the toy or treat.  Let him return to the item and continue playing or chewing if he so desires.

Step 3: is to do the same as in step 2 but this time walk over and touch his toy or treat.  If he has good behavior and does not growl or act aggressive give him a jackpot.  Do not pick up the item.  But reward him for good behavior.

Step 4: is to do the same as step 3 but pick up the item, jackpot then immediately give it back to him.

Step 5: repeat step 4 but hold the item longer before its return.  Jackpot for a happy response!

Now you can move on to higher value items, but work your way back up the list.  Taking a toy away is not like asking for your dog to drop a pig’s ear!  Ensure your dog’s success and your safety by making sure he is enjoying the training and you are using great rewards.

The final step if everything is going well, is to teach your dog to accept you taking something out of his mouth.  Only move on to this step if you are seeing no aggression!

Go to your pup while he is not eating or chewing on anything, open his mouth and drop in some delectable treats as you say “Drop It”, now toss some treats to the

Chewing and Playing should be full of Joy not Fear!

ground as in the previous steps and jackpot a good response.

Next step toward him and open his mouth (like you would imagine doing if he took something) and begin to desensitize him to you opening his mouth and darting

toward him.  Drop treats into his mouth after you open it and praise him.  Teach him that this behavior brings treats and rewards not fear and him losing his prize!

Soon if you work through the steps slowly and patiently with kindness and having fun, you will be able to take anything from him and he will enjoy it!  When he hears “Drop It” he should happily spit out ANYTHING because he expects a wonderful treat in return!  Once he has learned to respond correctly, make sure you continue to intermediately reward him for good behavior and you should be able to take anything from him for the rest of his life!

Puppy Possessiveness and Resource Guarding is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Being Overweight Can Kill Even Those We Love

There are some things I have seen in veterinary medicine and also as a professional dog trainer that are recipes for disaster and sometimes death.   Although none is a definite death sentence because some people experience extreme luck in very dangerous situations, I believe it is best to arm yourself with the knowledge to keep your dog safe!

#7: Living within the Bounds of a Safe Enclosure

Although some dogs chose and prefer to stay within the realms of their home territory, most dogs like to wander.  Wandering from home to home or across the street to chase cats and squirrels is tantalizing for most dogs.  If you add to this scenario an unneutered male, chances are almost nonexistent that your dog will choose to stay home when he gets a whiff on a female in heat.

Secure fencing is essential for good safe pet ownership.

Thousands of dogs are killed when hit by cars each year.  Several are killed by other dogs and wild animals when they leave the safety of their yard.

If you are on the side of luck and your dog doesn’t die from being hit by a car, or attacked by another dog the trauma of these experiences can affect them for a lifetime!

Make sure your fence is escape-proof.  If you use invisible fencing be sure to check it regularly to ensure it is working properly.

If you cannot provide a safe secure fenced area, walk your dog on a leash for his exercise and elimination requirements.

#6: Not Providing Preventative Medicine

Preventative medicine, means providing your dog with vaccinations, medications, and other veterinary tests in order to prevent disease and problems.  Regular quality veterinary care prevents diseases and tribulations as your dog ages.

Providing your dog with vaccinations and medications like Heartworm Prevention can keep your dog safe and alive!  Waiting to see the signs of disease for heartworm, or distemper may prove to be too late to save the life of your dog!

Recently I spent time with the friend of a friend who’s dog had NEVER been to a vet.  No puppy vaccines, no medications of any kind had ever been given.  The dog was 10 and only recently began suffering from obesity and arthritis.  I was amazed at her luck!

However, no matter how lucky she was…I would never risk my pet’s health.  I am happy to submit to annual and 3 year vaccines, yearly heartworm tests, monthly prevention pills, 2 or more exams per year with blood work and urinalysis as my dogs age.

My theory is if my vet recommends it, it makes sense, and it could potentially extend my dog’s life DO IT!  I will do whatever I can within my power to make sure I provide the best care available to me!

#5: Not teaching a Solid Recall or Teaching Your Dog to Come When Called

A solid or reliable recall is the most important command or task in dog training.  If I recommend teaching your dog ONE thing to ensure safety and well being, it is teaching your dog to come when called!

If your dog does not come when called you are setting him up for deadly chances.  Dogs that break away from their leash or rush out of the house, often get hit by a car while fleeing or chasing other animals.

You MUST teach your dog that you are more important and more exciting than anything else going on in his world!  He must know with 100% confidently that you will reward him for coming back to you NO MATTER WHAT.

It doesn’t matter if you are angry that he ran away, if he comes back to you, you must reward him!

You must also play recall games with him and make coming to you fun and rewarding!

ALWAYS reward your dog with praise and treats for coming to you and utilize these things to teach him to come to you!

NEVER take his coming to you for granted.  It is when people get complacent and expect their dogs to come and stop rewarding them that their dogs decide there is no reward to listening and coming when called!

#4: Tie Outs and Tethers

A Sad Way of Life

I cannot tell you how often I have heard stories and seen dogs die due to tie outs and tethers.

When dogs are left to their own devices on a tie out or tether they can do unimaginable things, usually due to boredom and they end up strangling themselves.

I have seen dogs wrap themselves around trees and not be able to figure out how to untangle themselves.  I have also seen them jump up and over tree limbs or other structures that lead to the restriction of movement, panic and ultimately strangulation.

Tie outs and tethers are fine to use while your dog is being closely monitored.  As a matter of fact I tether my dogs inside while they are learning to be potty trained and learning their manners, but I never leave them unattended!

Dogs panic when they start to strangle.  Instead of calming themselves down and moving back to gain more air, then continually struggle to the point where they often pass out and eventually strangle themselves.

One of my Service Dog clients left his dog home and outside tethered to a tree one day while he ran to the hospital to visit a family member.  When he returned home his beloved Service Dog was dead under the tree.  The dog, who was not use to being left, had desperately tried to get away and join his master, passed out and then strangled.  It was one of the saddest most heart wrenching stories I have ever heard.

#3: Leaving a Choke Chain on Your Dog

I can’t tell you how many dogs I encounter that regularly sport “choke chains” as actual collars.  Not only am I not a proponent of “choke chains” in general, I am horrified at the thought of leaving them on all of the time.

As a dog trainer I get use to people doing things that I don’t agree with when it comes to their dog.  So, if someone insists on using a choke chain as humane a fashion as possible I can understand to some level.  However, LEAVING that collar on their dog is extremely dangerous.

Choke chains should NEVER be left on dogs!  The open “O” ring of a choke chain can get hung up on tree limbs, furniture, or even on parts of a dog’s crate!  Once the choking begins the dog doesn’t understand to move back from the pressure, they will continue struggling until they strangle.

This also proves to be very dangerous at dog parks or other places where dogs play.  One dog’s tooth can get hung up on another dog’s choke chain and can cause panic and death.  I once worked at a dog boarding facility when this scenario happened.  Luckily, although bitten severely we were able to move the dogs together and untangle the chain.

This memory is still vivid in my mind.  I won’t even let my dog’s play with dogs that are wearing choke chains!

#2: Ingesting indigestible objects and/or medications

Having worked in a veterinary clinic for many years, I have seen numerous inedible objects swallowed that were unable to be digested.

One puppy swallowed more than 4 large rocks 4 different times before the rock eating habit finally killed him.  His owners, who had done their best to remove rocks, were inconsolable by his loss.

I have also witnessed the trauma from dogs that gobble up dropped pills or medications left out on the counter.

Numerous times I have heard stories of dogs eating whole bottles of Rimadyl ™ and similar pills because they are beef flavored and the bottle was accidentally left out on the counter.

Prevention and safely keeping medications locked up is key for success.  Never leave medications out where your pet can get into them.  Even if you think your dog would never eat pills, it is not worth the risk!

Teaching your dog “Leave It” and to not gobble up items or pills that hit the floor is also essential.  You never know when you might drop a Tylenol or a Cold Pill and it is crucial that your dog not race you to whatever has dropped because he thinks it is food!

Teach your dog not to eat things that drop or things that he finds on the floor.  Basically you should teach him he can only eat the things you give him or tell him he can eat!

Crates can also keep your pet safe and comfortable when you are gone so that he does not eat or shred dangerous items!

1: Obesity

Obesity is a Painful Way to Die

The number one deadly sin, in my opinion, and the cause of a higher mortality rate than needs be for our dogs is obesity.

A colossal amount of dogs might not die of obvious obesity related diseases like diabetes, although many dogs and cats do die of diabetes and its complications.

The less obvious complications due to obesity are: heart and liver disease, increased risk of cancer, breathing difficulties and damage to joints, bones and ligaments.

Thousands, if not millions of dogs are euthanized each year due to arthritis and pain.  Most of these dogs are also significantly overweight or obese.

Obesity leads to increased risk and the severity of pain of arthritis.

Arthritis is a main cause of euthanasia.   Dogs get older and are unable to comfortably get around and soon their pain is not able to be managed effectively.

Keeping your pet svelte and slim can extend his life and keep him from getting heart, liver and cancer related diseases.

A veterinary pain specialist once said at a seminar “No dog should ever have to be euthanized due to pain and arthritis.”  That quote has stuck with me for many years, and I have made a promise to my dogs that I will never let them become obese.

I love them too much to watch them suffer senselessly from something that I can so easily control!

The 7 Deadly Sins of Dog Ownership is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Practice Makes Perfect and Requires Actual Effort!

People always ask me how I, as a professional dog trainer, make dog training look so easy and how can they can improve their techniques?

I came up with what I believe to be the 5 most important reasons people have difficulty training their dog to work effectively for them.

These are the 5 Most Important Dog Training Mistakes to Avoid, in what I believe to be the most important order.

#5  Lack of Practice or Effort

I have said it before (sometimes I feel like I talk about the same things) but I say it again because it is soooo important!

Practice is crucial!  Your dog WILL NOT learn at obedience class once a week.  I use to tell all my dog obedience students this on the first night of class, and YES most were appalled that I would admit it

Your dog learns through repetition and training AT HOME!  If you are not making a point to work your dog daily or several times a day or week, you will not reap the benefits of a well trained dog!!

My dogs will drop on a hand signal or a verbal command (if they can hear it) at more than 50 yards away, even on a crowded beach!  The reason my dogs are so impressive and attentive is not because I am a dog trainer…it is because I practice and I teach them daily.

These daily lessons get them use to listening to me and they listen in times of stress simply by default.  That is…they are soooo use to doing it at home, that when I add distraction and they hear my voice it is their default to just do what I say, when I say it!

But, if they are not use to listening to me daily; if they don’t have 95% obedience around the house and the yard they will never listen in a crowd of dogs and people!

So simply put, practice, practice, practice!!  Get out there and work on your obedience and having fun together, then add more advanced obedience to your curriculum as you are more and more successful!  Dog training takes actually activity and effort!!

#4 Poor Timing

Good Timing is Essential to Good Learning

Timing is essential in dog training!  Poor timing means you are rewarding the wrong behavior.  If I click and treat my dog the instant BEFORE or AFTER he sits, he does not understand that SIT is what I want.  He thinks that I want the behavior he is performing the moment the clicker goes off!

Practice your timing on your husband, or human kids and see if you have good timing and they understand what you want!  If the humans in your life are having trouble understanding what you want, chances are your canine is set up for failure!  For help check out our previous blog,  A Clever Exercise to Try Tonight.

Incorrect timing just sends the wrong message and prolongs your dog’s ability to learn accurately.  Don’t get me wrong, even I click too early or too late sometimes; it is inevitable!  But you must understand and do your very best to click at the right moment so that your dog can excel!

#3 Rewarding the Wrong Behavior

Along those lines, are you rewarding the wrong behavior?  Does it feel like your dog is training YOU?

Does your dog demand for you to feed him, throw his ball, or do anything else to fulfill his needs?

If you not only allow him to bark at you and then you do what he wants you are telling him that is exactly what you want!  It is as if you are saying PLEASE bark in my face when you want something.

Not only does poor timing affect your ultimate dog training goals, but simply inadvertently giving in to your dog sends a very specific message!

Do you pet your dog when he paws at you, nudges you, or puts his face in your lap?  If you do, you are encouraging the behavior!

When you see a negative behavior rear its ugly head in your home, ask yourself “What does my dog get out of this behavior?” and then try and change the reward he is getting, whether you are giving it to him or he is rewarding himself!

#2  Inconsistency

Inconsistency Leads to Frustration!

How often does a behavior bother you at one time but not at another?

Is it a problem when your dog jumps on you ALL of the time, or do you allow it occasionally; say when you come home and he has missed you or when you are not dressed up?

Is your whole family on board with keeping your dog off of the furniture, or does one member of the family let the dog in the bed or on the couch when you are gone?

Do you make your dog listen to your commands sometimes but not others?  Sometimes he sits, sometimes he doesn’t and sometimes he gets in trouble for not listening but not all the time!

If you allow some behaviors some of the time, if some of your dog’s family members allow some naughty behaviors with them, and if you don’t reinforce obedience commands the FIRST time you give them; you are setting your dog up for horrible failure!

Your dog does not know when you are dressed up; when he can and can’t jump on you!

Your dog has difficulty understanding I can get in the bed or on the sofa when “dad” is gone.

And, your dog should know with assuredly when he is giving ONE command you are serious about his compliance ALWAYS.

This being said DO NOT give a command you cannot reinforce!  If your dog isn’t likely to come when called or sit at 20 yards away, off leash…don’t tell him to!  By telling him to do something and him choosing to ignore you, you are ruining his obedience.  Put him on a leash and work on certain scenarios while he is under your direct control!

#1 He is Intimidated and Scared by the Threat of Physical Pain and Punishment

Too Scared to Learn Effectively

Although most people think that physical correction and punishment solidify behavior and increase their likelihood of not happening again studies show that this is not the case.

Not only is punishment not effective for learning, because it comes AFTER the fact it is also not conducive to learning!

Fear inhibits learning.  What is your biggest fear?  Now imagine yourself; locked in a coffin, covered in spiders, or falling off of a skyscraper…could you LEARN something new while dealing with your fear?   Chances are your ability to learn a new skill would be seriously affected.   During this stress could you listen to and comply to given instructions even if you knew how to do it?  I probably couldn’t!

Your dog is probably terrified when he incurs a beating, and compulsion  and even if it is during or after he has jumped on you, chances are he doesn’t understand the intricacies of why you just lost your temper.  In his mind, he is simply excited to see you and wants to be closer to you!

It is not popular, but thankfully a recent reader admitted to the occasional hitting, and yelling at her dog.  She also admitted that although she hit him, he still never seemed to learn.  She wanted to learn a new way to interact and train her dog.

I applaud her for admitting to something that most of us would never admit to, even if it is true sometimes.

So, I was able to hopefully shed some light on why this happens.  Number one, we have already discussed: Punishment is not successful at teaching behavior or the lack thereof.  And, fear reduces the ability to learn and listen.

The other aspect of physical manipulation, punishment and pain is that under these conditions animals are not willing to TRY to learn for fear of failure and ultimate pain and punishment.

It may not make sense to you, but I implore you to put yourself in your dog’s paws.

You have a boss that speaks another language and you don’t understand your job requirements.  Every time you make a mistake, you get hit in the face.  Now add a little inconsistency, sometimes you get hit in the face after a behavior and sometimes you don’t.  He also yells at you A LOT.  So when he tries to teach you something new and starts yelling…do you try a number of likely behaviors or do you just shut down in fear and brace for the inevitable beating?

I shut down the minute someone yells at me.  The quickest way to get me to be quiet, shrink into myself, and focus on anything BUT you, is to yell at me.  I HATE yelling and temper tantrums (from humans) I expect them to some degree from dogs!

Your dog needs to be comfortable to show you a variety of behaviors and know with assuredly that there will be no pain or terror if he chooses the wrong path.  This confidence allows your dog to feel safe with you and know that there will be no horrifying experiences when working with you.  Probably the worst that will happen is that you will take his toys and treats away for a while, or deny him access to you (his favorite person) or you will better control his behavior using a leash the next time.

Dogs using positive reinforcement are not only willing but they are excited to show a gamut of diverse behaviors when they are trying to learn something new.  There is NO FEAR of failure.  It is much easier to train a dog that is willing and excited to learn than to train a dog that is afraid of making a mistake.

But, the minute a true cross word, angry face, cross eye, or actual hitting/kicking or the like enters the equation their willingness to learn declines and you see signs of fear and sadness.

This is why it is so important that you be in a good mood, have had a good day, know what behavior you are working on and work together as a team to be successful.  As soon as you start getting frustrated, recognize your limits and stop training before things escalate past a point of no return.  Always end training on a good note!

As humans say, “We can forgive but we can never forget”.  Your dog feels the same, except he is so much more likely to forgive wholeheartedly but when you get mad and start to act the same way you did in the past when you were mad, he can’t ever forget.

First thing to do is put your hands down and vow never to use them again.

Some Rehabilitation and the Building of Trust may be needed!

Second is to figure out WHY something is making you so mad you revert to violence

Third is to figure out how to change that scenario by teaching your dog using positive reinforcement what you want and expect from him.

You may have to brush up on your clicker training; and I will yet again plug Karen Pryor and Gary Wilkes!

Dog psychology, operant conditioning, and positive reinforcement  goes a lot farther at building your relationship and trust than yelling, screaming, hitting, kicking and beating ever will!

I always go back to when I worked with big cats.  If I hit, kicked, corrected with a painful collar when working with these large cats…I would probably either be dead or missing some digits and or body parts!  Because I use my mind and not my brawn while I worked with them, we practiced, we had good timing, we tried desperately not to reward the wrong behaviors, and we were consistent with ourselves and anyone else who would be allowed into our inner sanctum.

If you are a reformed punishment, or physical type trainer and you are looking for success….you must go back to square one and build your relationship together.  Start over and teach him to trust you.  YOU are in control of your emotions and you know when you are reaching a point that you need to stop if you get frustrated.  But hopefully as you change your style and you dog recognizes how your relationship has changed he will be more willing to learn and make mistakes and build a strong relationship together!

Make an effort to avoid all of the intricacies of the list I have just made.  Study them, then click on the links provided that will give you more intricate information about the information in the subheadings.

Knowledge is power!  If you can already admit you might have started off on the wrong paw, you are already placing yourself on the road to recovery and building a lasting relationship with your dog and awesome obedience!!

The Top 5 Most Important Dog Training Mistakes to Avoid is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Working with a Cheetah! How's that for training experience!!

I love to read!  When I was a baby I got a vaccination that almost took my life.  I am sure my mother was terrified.  I have some memories of lying on the couch very sick.  My mother would read to me for hours, and at that time (before DVDs or VHS…ahhh I hate aging myself) Disney movies came on record.

I would sit and listen to a movie over and over until I had basically memorized it. In some ways I am grateful for all of my experiences they have shaped me and who I am as an adult.  Because of that one shot, my immune system was never quite able to fight off infection and I did get and still get every flu bug that goes around. I grew up loving reading.   Reading was my way to escape into another world and to learn about…well, anything I was interested in at the time.  My mother did not allow video games, and TV was restricted

This love of reading followed me to college when I double majored one being in English.  I still love English Literature (I know I am a nerd).  But, in many ways these are all the reasons you are reading this article right now.  If I grew up playing video games, I probably wouldn’t be writing or reading to entertain myself.

I am able to learn by reading, and I have hundreds of books lining a book shelf to prove it.  I enjoy reading and breaking things down; highlighting important points for further study.

Part of the beginning of my successful dog training career came from reading just about every dog training book I could get my hands on.  Almost 20 years ago it was difficult to find any kind of dog training on VHS or to see anything visually that wasn’t learned at a class or a seminar.

Much of my learning took place at night reading one book and then another.

My FAVORITE Book!

I remember when Karen Pryor came out with “Don’t Shoot the Dog” such a remarkable ground breaking book. I still read it for fun occasionally (party animal that I am).  I recommend that book to anyone who has a dog, is a mother, works with people…well, ANYONE really!

But not everyone likes to read.  My husband (bless his heart) admits that if it is not a popup picture book he is probably not interested in reading it.  I am not sure he has read a book since high school and/or Navy Training and he was forced to do so.  I can say these things because I know he is not going to read this ha ha ha

Don’t get me wrong, he is a smart guy and was E8 Senior Chief Engineer on a destroyer in the Navy.  He actually has much better recall on most factual things than I do; he can tell you each step or how a bill becomes law, the capitals of the states, and all kinds of bizarre history facts.  I pretend to remember these things too, unless put on the spot.

So what happens to those of you who might learn better from a hands on approach to dog training, and other things?

We are introducing instructional dog training videos!  Me and my furry kids have been hitting the grass (no pun intended) and shooting some videos that tackle some of the most basic, and some of the most difficult dog training problems.

Although it is hard for me to keep things to a short minimum while writing or taping (I like hearing myself my husband says), most of the videos are a short 2 to 3 minutes long.

2 to 3 minutes may not seem like long, but it is enough to help you visualize the problem and how to fix it!

It may be difficult to imagine working a dog in “drive”, but it only takes a minute or two to show you how to begin developing drive to utilize your dogs instincts in your obedience training program.  Drive and Focus are two of my favorite aspects about good, competition style obedience.  Often the things I have written articles about, I have also shot instructional videos to help you achieve these goals.

Come Join Us!

We also tackle some of your questions and some of the basic needs everyone has with their dog.

I know, too that there are many readers from around the world, and these videos will help to break down the language barrier for anyone who might struggle.  Visually seeing how to do things will be enough to help you with your dog’s training, problems, or level of exercise and entertainment.

So come check them out at the Dog Training Secret Video Vault and utilize these tips to further your relationship with your dog and your dog training skills.  We guarantee you will enjoy them and you will see a rapid change in your dogs obedience and attitude toward you and training!

The Dog Training Secret’s New Video Vault is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Hi I really need you to answer my question as
fast as possible and if you have to put it in that
newsletter thing could you please put it in
very very soon or as soon as possible.

Ok my dog Koda, I don’t know what to do with
him anymore. He barks and barks and barks
when I put him in his pen at night which is about 5o
meters away form the house and my
dad said that he will get rid of my puppy if he
wont stop which will be very sad.

Ok so you say to fix bad behavior you need
to reward good behavior… I completely agree
with this but the only problem is that, because
the pen is 50 meters away from the house how
do I reward that good behavior when he continues
barking non stop until it’s fully dark and then when
I go out to see if I can stop him he just stops barking
like he is a lil angel but as soon as I walk back
up the stairs to the house he starts again…
It drives my dad insane and he keeps saying that
He will either take the dog for a ride or get rid
of him.

Its been about over 2 months now since I have gotten
him and every night since then he has not failed
in barking. All my friends and family say just ignore
the dog and he will learn not to bark. but it doesn’t
work and he just does it more. Oh and he doesn’t just
bark at night he barks as soon as the sun comes up
in the morning until we let him off about 8am.

PLEASE HELP ME…. MY DAD CAN’T TAKE IT AND
I DONT WANT HIM TO TAKE MY PUPPY AWAY
FROM ME!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me first start by breaking down the information as I understand it.  As I am reading this, I am getting the picture of an outside dog.  It sounds as if the dog is put outside in a pen at night when it gets dark.  He is kept in that pen until 8 a.m. the following morning and then put in perhaps another pen or area outside?  It states he is barking all night and continuing his barking song throughout the day until it is fully dark outside again at night.  That is a lot of barking!  It seems to me he is outside and most likely alone all of the time.

Ahhh the Angelic Puppy Face

When you visit him, he stops barking and gives you that angelic face we all adore.  The problem for you and your dad is he is 50 meters from the house making it easy for you all to hear him but difficult for you to reward him for good behavior from that distance.

Let’s Look at this from HIS Viewpoint

He yearns to be with you.  When he sees you he gives you want you want in order to keep you there by being quiet.  When you leave he is probably frustrated, confused, sad, and possibly scared to be by himself.  You refer to him as a puppy so I will assume he has normal puppy insecurities!  You and your attention is what he truly desires.

He is also extremely bored.  In some ways, dogs that are locked up (even in large areas) like that for extensive periods of time suffer from severe boredom that can lead to severe behavioral issues.   I have seen dogs that become obsessive compulsive by pacing, walking in circles for a large part of the day, they can learn to bark excessively, and some of them even self groom or lick to the point of mutilation.  It is like working with a wild animal at a zoo or being in prison.  Caged animals start developing coping skills in order to survive in an environment where they don’t think they can thrive.

Barking, singing, yodeling, and baying are all ways that your dog is entertaining himself.  Listening to himself bark and conversing with other dogs he can hear barking throughout the neighborhood or over the miles provides him with more reward to continue the behavior.  That is why ignoring the behavior, in this instance is not likely to work.  This behavior has become self rewarding to him.  He simply enjoys the act of barking at this point in the game, and it sounds like he really has nothing else to do.  If nothing else he has developed a bad behavior problem from the constant barking which has developed a behavioral habit.

Not only this irritating barking providing him with his own form of reward, occasionally YOU go outside to check on him or to get him to stop and this is MONUMENTAL!  I bet he would bark for 7 hours straight if it would bring you and even a bit of brief interaction with you!

From Your Dad’s Stand Point

He probably agreed to getting a dog, but had no idea he would be paired with a wild barking puppy!  Some people frustrate more easily than others; and dads work hard and need their rest!  I understand his frustration.  And, I am sure he is sad to give you an ultimatum.  But hopefully he will allow you to take the time to make a difference, as this HABIT is going to be more difficult to break and a newly started bad behavior.

From Your Point

You are stuck between a rock and a hard place.  You want your dad to be happy and relaxed.  You would’ve liked a silent dog, but now you don’t know how to get one and you don’t want to get rid of your puppy.

So How Do We Help EVERYONE to make sure this is successful?

This behavior modification program is going to start early and last throughout the day.

Being Behind a Fence All Day Can be Frustrating!

The first thing I would recommend is bringing the dog into the house in a crate; this would make life and behavior modification so much simpler for you.  I put a crate right next to the side of my bed.  If my dog gets restless I can tap on the side of the crate and remind him to be quiet and if he is adamant about needing out I can get him outside before there is an accident.  Being indoors is probably less stimulating because he can’t hear the neighbors, their dogs and wild animals roaming around and he would be less likely to bark.  To keep him less stimulated in your room, add a loud fan that will drown out the other noises of the home. You also mentioned when you are there with him he is quiet.  Convince your parents to let you put him in a crate in your room at night.

If that is not an option consider crating him in another more quiet area like a garage where you can turn on the loud fan or a radio and help him to sleep at night.  Crates are wonderful tools and they help dogs feel more secure.

Prior to crating him or getting him ready for his pen at night he needs EXTENSIVE exercise.  My mind visualizes a dog running next to a bicycle or a scooter and running to almost exhaustion (while having fun).  This depends in the breed and age of your pup.  Never pound the joints of young puppies with exercise on hard ground because they are growing.  Have young pups run in grass, on soft terrain or in fields.

Stimulate and exhaust that body right before its time for him to go to bed!  Within reason, let your dog set the pace and help him maintain it.  But, warm up those muscles first with some obedience and a few sprints.  Warming up the muscles and joints helps to prevent injury.

Older dogs can pull tires and other weighted objects to help them exert mental and physical activity and to help build muscles and exhaust the body.

An exhausted dog is tooooooo sleepy to bark all night long whether it is in an outside pen or inside.  He is more likely to be successful sleeping inside because the environment is less stimulating and he hasn’t started the bad habit of excessive barking inside.  It is much more difficult to break bad habits, than it is to start over and never form the bad habit.

Work on obedience with him at least 5 times per day!  Stimulate his mind and you will also see him getting tired.  Not only does mental stimulation wear dogs out, it also gets them into the habit of listening to you.

If your dog doesn’t listen to you and your commons at least 80% of the time without distractions how can you expect him to listen to you WITH distractions?  Barking at this point is more fulfilling than listening to you!  You must change that dynamic by working on regular obedience with him and getting him into the habit of listening to your voice and obeying your commands.

Although it may not seem to make sense that sitting, laying down, coming when called or heeling on a leash would help you with a troubled barker, I promise that the one on one training time will be crucial to the development of your relationship, respect and eventually he will listen to you when he is distracted by other things in his environment.

Give him a variety of things to do when you do have to leave him!  Don’t leave him in a barren, boring environment with nothing to do but bark.  Stuff bones with peanut butter and freeze them and give them to him when you leave.  Visit the butcher to get large bones he can chew on during the day.  Get interactive toys and games that he can play by himself while you are gone.  Bury toys and teach him to find them.

Hopefully a large cow or deer bone is more exciting to chew on than barking incessantly!

I also recommend you read my other article “The Irritation Known as Barking” and follow the steps outlined within.

Put Barking and Quiet on Command

You will have to go out to his pen and work with him teaching him to bark and then to be quiet like the other article outlines.  Then you will have to slowly work your way further and further back toward the house slowly extend the time you are gone.  He should be rewarded for being quiet and he should only get the “WONDERFUL” things like bones stuffed with peanut butter and chewies and games when you leave.  Hopefully soon he will look forward to your leaving because he knows he gets his favorite thing (the bone).

But in order for this to work you must spend regular time with him so that he gets both, interaction with you…and time to himself.  You cannot expect a pack animal to enjoy being alone all of the time!  He needs interaction, love and time spent bonding with you!

There is no quick fix!  Most often bark collars and other devices do not solve the source of the problem and sometimes can make things worse.  TEACHING your dog what you want and to listen to you is your best resource, mental stimulation and exercise is a crucial element to the quality of life of all dogs and don’t forget he desires to spend quality and ample time with you!

Good luck and we all wish you the very best!

A Cry For Help is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

This is a "Leave It" at its best! He did love fries!

In my humble opinion, the “Leave It” command is one of the most important things you can teach your dog!  There are just some commands that may someday be invaluable in saving your dog’s life.  Coming when called and leaving things on command could potentially be lifesaving.

Imagine you are standing in the kitchen getting your morning prescription medications together for the day, when you drop a couple of pills.  What happens if your dog is typically a “Hoover” (floor vacuum-er)?  Most human medications can be fatal for your pet.  Even Tylenol is lethal for dogs and cats.  That moment of panic when pills spill on the floor can be lessened if you teach your dog the “Leave It” command.

When I was training Service Dogs with an organization in Denver, CO I was told “Leave It” meant; do not touch, eat, or even look at the object and that definition has stuck with me.  I think some people think it’s okay to at least look at a “Leave It” object but I think that can add difficulty to an already difficult proposal.

A “Leave It” means to completely ignore whatever the item or distraction is from a pill or a hot dog dropped on the floor, to a skateboarder flying past; Leave It means LEAVE IT!

So How Do You Teach “Leave It”?

What You Will Need

• Great Treats
• Mediocre Treats or Dog Food
• A Cheap Canvas 2 Pocket Tool Belt
• A Leash
• A Clicker
• Lots of Patience!

Getting Started

Go and get your dog and put him on a leash and take him to a secluded private place that you can train together.  This command needs your full attention at first while he is learning!

I like to use a 2 pocket tool belt (just the cheap canvas kind) for this training.  I put my GREAT treats in one side and my mediocre treats or dog food in the other.  Utilizing this tool makes it easier for me to access the right treat for the right response.

Keep the leash tight as you take a couple of mediocre treats out and place them on the floor out of your dog’s reach.  Make sure he sees you put the treats down and restrict his access to the treats.  Do not pop on the leash or correct him, let him strain for the treats but tell him “Leave It”.

Ready your clicker!  At first he should look at and strain himself toward the treat, but soon he will get frustrated that he cannot reach them and he will turn and look away from the treats and toward you because he is discouraged.  At that moment when he turns and looks away from the treats click and reward him with the GREAT treat!

If he continues to look at you, you can again praise and give a mediocre reward.

Now touch the mediocre treats that are on the floor again or pick them up and put them down again, to get him interested in them once again.  As he looks at them, tell him “Leave It” and wait until he ignores them and looks toward you; click and jackpot him for a correct response.

Continue playing this game until he is hardly focused or not focused at all on the mediocre treats.

Once he has grasped the concept, you can move the mediocre treats closer to your dog.  Click and jackpot for a good response and continue to try to deny him access to the treats.  This may take several sessions and mastery of this command could take much longer, be patient!

Move them closer and closer until he pays no attention at all.  He should now realize the GREAT treats come from you, not the floor and that “Leave It” means he will get a better reward if he listens.

Now, you may begin to use better and better treats as your “Leave It” distraction.  Until he has completely given up trying to get the “Leave It” treat make the reward that comes from you better than the one you are using as a distraction.

Now that he is completely ignoring the treats you put down, you can use the same treat.  He should realize the best in life comes from you not from the floor, or anywhere else.

Next tell him “Leave It” as you hold a treat in one hand.  Click and reward with the opposite hand for a good response.  He should be able to leave items you are eating or carrying as well as things on the floor.

Thanks to the Fun Times Guide.com for the photo

Now that this game is fun, you can employ the help of family members and friends by having them try to give him a treat but then telling him to “Leave It”.  If he is really good, have them toss treats at him in an attempt to get him to make a mistake.  This can help for those of you who are afraid your dog may be at risk from poisoning.

Also proof this behavior by putting food on his feet or up his arms.  He should be able to ignore any distraction at this point and he should be having a good time knowing that the reward from you will be greater than anything tossed to him or stacked on him!

This should be fun!  You are not scaring him from the distraction, you are simply teaching him that YOU are better than anything else.  If you employ scare tactics you will likely end up with a dog that only listens while you are right next to him.  If however he thinks this is a game and you might be right around the corner with a game or a wonderful treat, he is much more likely to be successful!

Now go have some fun with your dog!  This is a great party trick, and essential for safety!

A Skill That Could Save Your Dog’s Life; Leave It! is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog