WRONG type of Conditioning!

Conditioning affects all of us in normal life and as it relates to our dogs.  It is important to understand conditioning and how it works in order to best control it when it comes to our canine companions.

First, let’s get the technical “speak” out of the way and then we can talk in more layman’s terms.

There are different types of conditioning when it comes to behavior.   We normally refer to two types of behavioral conditioning when it comes to our dogs; classical conditioning and operant conditioning.

Classical Conditioning:  Is a form of learning that involves presentation of a neutral stimulus along with a stimulus of some significance.  The neutral stimulus is a stimulus that does not normally affect the behavior of the respondent.  The significant stimulus is a stimulus that evokes a natural response.  Responses elicited by classical conditioning are not maintained by consequences.

Operant Conditioning: is a form of learning during which an individual learns to modify the occurrence and form of its own behavior due to the association with a stimulus.   This is modification of voluntary behavior.  Naturally occurring consequences can reinforce, punish, or extinguish behavior and are not always delivered by people.

In Layman’s Terms:

Classical Conditioning is training with a marker like a certain word or a clicker.  It is pairing something like a treat, with something that in the beginning is

Classical Conditioning

not understood or known by the dog.  By pairing something that the dog would naturally want (the treat) with something that the dog doesn’t really know (the clicker) it conditions the marker (or the clicker) to mean essentially the same thing as the treat after a period of time.  Therefore the marker can be used to reinforce desirable behavior.

Operant Conditioning is the dog learning (sometimes on his own) what is reinforcing and what has negative consequences in his own environment.  This can involve human/dog training or it can be something that is self-learned.

I believe that both of these types of training are important.  I really like classical conditioning because I can better control my dog, his learning and his responses.

But, for the purpose of this article I want to focus on operant conditioning and how it can negatively affect your training without you realizing it.

Often bad behaviors or behavior problems start out small.  For whatever the reason, your dog finds the behavior rewarding.  He may begin barking and he learns that he enjoys the sound of his own voice, or he sees the mailman leave after barking threatening him.

An intact male dog may begin to mark his territory inside the house.

If you notice the behavior in the beginning, it is usually fairly quick to change.  Instead of the behavior being rewarding for the dog, you can change the behavior, or restrict the behavior.

For instance if I have a dog that is constantly looking out the window and barking I am going to restrict his access to that window and if I have a dog marking or urinating in the house I am going to keep him on a leash with me and restrict his access to my house.  At my house these things are privileges that need to be earned.

I am Going to Change Bad Behavior Before it Becomes Habit

But, I do my best to nip bad behavior in the bud the moment I see it.  Even if I think  it is a little cute (begging or tail chasing) I must not encourage the behavior or it will become harder to eventually fix.

I recently had an older client at my house with her 4 year old poodle.  He was barking incessantly.  The problem was that her husband had originally thought it was cute when he barked at the front door and at noises on the TV and rewarded the behavior by encouraging it.

The dog learned that this behavior was appreciated, so he began to show it all of the time.  Soon he was barking when a leaf hit the ground, or when his owners moved the furniture and eventually it wasn’t cute anymore.

However, at this point the behavior had become conditioned.  He had been showing the behavior for so long it has become second nature.

The same is true with allowing your dog to urinate or defecate in your house for a long time.  Instead of being a behavior problem, it becomes a conditioned behavior.

A conditioned behavior is like a habit, whether it be good or bad.  But, habits are hard to change; especially well established habits.

Old habits are hard to break and new habits are hard to form because the behavioral patterns we repeat are imprinted in our neural pathways.

The basal ganglion (in the brain) appears to remember the context that triggers a habit, meaning they can be revived if triggers appear.

This is why it is sooo important to create good habits and change the behavior problems immediately when we see them.

People often ask me “Is he too old to learn”?  to which I vehemently say “NO! Dogs are never too old to learn!”

But learning is much easier if you are not breaking a bad habit!

Which means you can probably teach your 5 year old Chihuahua to “shake” hands a lot faster than you can re-train him not to bark at everything that moves.

What Can You Do?

Condition and Reward Good Behaviors to Form Good Habits!

Make sure that you are conditioning the good behaviors that your dog shows.  Encourage him to lay down, to come when called, to be quiet, and to potty outside.  After a period of time good behaviors are also conditioned.  Wouldn’t it be nice to know that your dog is “conditioned” to come to you when you call him?  But in order to achieve this you have to put in the work and effort to consistently reward it.

In order to achieve conditioning or habit forming, you must be consistent with your reward.  You must also fairly consistently or regularly reward these behaviors.  You can’t condition the behavior and then never reward your dog for it again or the reward and the habit will extinguish or go away!

Remember that many naughty behaviors your dog is showing are self-rewarding.  He doesn’t need you to reward them because he is rewarding himself and so conditioning happens very quickly!

Be very careful what behavior you reward!  You may think, initially that you want your dog or your puppy to bark but I guarantee after a time you will want some quiet and silence on command.  You don’t need to reward barking, most often it is a self-rewarding behavior, and you do want to reward QUIET!

IF Your Dog Has a Bad Habit

Be patient!!!  It is very difficult to change a bad behavior that has developed into a habit!

You must be willing to be almost completely consistent or at least aim for 95% consistency and reaction!

This consistency is what helps to form a new behavior.

Think of your dog as a former drug abuser or someone trying to quit smoking.  Be patient!  Bad habits don’t change overnight.

Don’t give up!  Your dog is worth your time and effort and he needs you to be resilient and patient!

A favorite quote of mine that applies to constant, consistent and positive dog training:

Shoot for the moon. Even if you miss, you’ll land among the stars.

Don’t settle for the bare minimum or give the least effort you think

you can get away with. If you’re going to do something, do it to the

best of your ability! 

Understanding Conditioning in Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Does your Dog Stare at what He wants?

The other day I found myself, staring blankly around my kitchen.  I guess I am getting old, because as with numerous other times I had forgotten what I was doing!

As I glanced around trying to get my bearings, my pupils caught the pupils of my oldest dog.  He is 12 and my very, very best friend, dare I say my furry soul mate?  He commonly follows me from room to room and I rarely am capable of completing any task without his help, or so he thinks (and I am afraid I agree)!

As my gaze matched his, I watched him very consciously look very lovingly from me…to the top of our refrigerator.

I giggled a little and acted totally brainless.  As I waited, to see what he would do, he very calmly caught my eyes and even more slowly turned his head to stare at the top of my refrigerator, languishing there for a moment or two before again glancing back to my face.

I must admit I found him completely endearing and totally hilarious.  You see, I keep my dog treats on top of the fridge.  This was his way of calmly, quietly asking for a treat, AND it must work!

I quietly asked him “What do you want” and again he slowly pivoted his head toward his awaiting treats.  By now, since I had engaged him in conversation, he was drooling in apprehension.

This got me to thinking…  As skilled as he was at getting me to deliver a treat (and yes, I admit I did give him one because his request was so quiet, calm and intelligent) I wonder what else he has trained me to do for him!

You see, I think we are the inferior species when it comes to dog training!  I believe they are much, much better trainers than we are! They are more patient, more insistent and less distracted than most of us!  Most of all dogs are incredibly consistent! Could you scream in a crate for 2 hours straight?

Dogs learn very quickly what behaviors we like and what behaviors we don’t and what behaviors get them the most interaction.  What behaviors reward them and what behaviors don’t.  Make no mistake about it; sometimes those are not related.  In fact sometimes dogs choose naughty behavior simply to get some kind of interaction from us because inadvertently we reward them when we don’t mean to!

AND, sometimes naughty, bad, deplorable behaviors are reinforcing!

Whenever I have a behavior problem or a struggle in my dog training, I ask myself “What is my dog getting out of this?”

This is the root to good dog training and understanding dog behavior.

When there is a problem, whether it be a human or dog related problem the person or dog is getting something out of the behavior.

In order to find a solution we must determine what the “payoff” is and if we are looking to change a behavior we must deny the subject the payoff they are use to or that they desire!

Does your Dog Steal?

For instance, I often hear of people who complain that their dogs steal objects, show their owners, and then dash off around the house for a fun game of “cat and mouse”.

The bad behavior: Stealing

The payoff:  The “chase” game, where the owners scream profanities, throw objects, cry and run around chasing the dog, is in fact the dog’s favorite game!  What could be more fun for your dog than a game that you will probably NEVER win (because you simply aren’t quick or agile enough to catch him)?  AND, it is completely interactive!  This is why your dog steals and often shows you the stolen article before darting off.

So, in order to change the bad behavior: Stealing…you must prevent the behavior or change or cease the pay off.   More on this problem in this article “Teaching your Thief to Retrieve” 

It doesn’t matter what the bad behavior is: stealing food, barking, jumping on people, having accidents on the floor, aggression; there is a payoff for your dog.

As the more intellectual animal you need to figure it out and decide how to change the behavior.

My ability to do so has often been the precursor to people saying I am part dog.   In order to conquer dog behavior, you must put yourself in his paws and “Think like a Dog” 

My challenge to you is to observe your world, watch what you are doing with and for your dog and ask yourself who is the better trainer in your home; you or your dog?

Do You End up Chasing Your Dog?

What do You do About it? 

The first step to true change is to acknowledge the problem.

Once you realize how YOU have been trained you can begin the re-training or the reorganization of your relationship with your dog.

Are you “Rewarding the Wrong Behavior”?

My dog, would personally like me to be a human PEZ dispenser!  Like all “animals” he would like to get everything in his life and in his world for free or at the very slightest with the least expelled energy as possible.

I don’t mean to dash everyone’s feelings about dogs, but they don’t care about pleasing you, unless of course in some way it pleases them.

We are all out for ourselves in the end.  The point is to make sure that what pleases you is what positively affects your dog!  Simple as that!

Will my senior dog continue to seek my gaze in the hopes of staring at the things he wants in life?  ABSOULTELY!  Especially since I rewarded him with what he desired the last time he did it, but in the scheme of things I didn’t feel this was a negative behavior.

However, I know that many of you are suffering from some nasty behavior problems and because of that I admonish you, step back and look at the big picture.  Take notes if you have to and make a list of the possible payoffs for your dog and only then can you begin to change that behavior!

Who’s Training Whom at Your House? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Thank you to fortunate K9 for the picture

I do my very best to write for the masses.  I try to keep up on comments on my blog and the problems that plague dog owners around the world.

I write articles on basic commands like teaching your dog about the leash to finding your dog’s  motivator.  I also write intermediate articles for those looking for more of a challenge and advanced obedience.  We even talk about games and aggression.   Occasionally I even direct my articles to others in my field or those aspiring for such a career.

I even shoot short informative videos to show you how to train your own dog in your own time in the Dog Training Secrets Video Vault here www.dogtrainingvideovault.com

But I suppose I don’t hit all the questions that everyone needs answered.

However I get  A LOT of duplicate questions about the same behavior.

Utilize Our Resources!

Did you know I have almost 20 years experience working with animals?  I have worked with everything from police dogs, to service dogs from the disabled to large cats!  I have a glowing career I am quite proud of!

So, first I am here to encourage you to use our resources for yourself and the well being of your dog and to help those you know friends and family having questions.

• Read our blog!  There are articles posted twice weekly and these articles are also posted to Facebook and Twitter.
  

  Our Training is built on Play and Games to make it More Fun for you Both!

• When you click on the highlighted words in the body of the article it will take you to related articles!
• Search our blog.  If you have questions or problems or are suffering from a doggy behavior problem do a search in the search box in the upper left hand side of our blog.  You can search for anything from barking to nose games.  This is a great and free resource.
• We are constantly doing research to improve our techniques and keep up with the latest information in the field, which we often publish for you!
• We are honest and our training is simple, based on play, and always positive and fun!
• Join us on Facebook!  If you like our page at TheDogTrainingSecret.com it will automatically load not only the new training articles for each week, it will also post to your page interesting articles about dog’s health, dogs in the news and free dog offers!
• Share our posts to your wall so that your friends and family can get the free help that might help them improve their relationship with their dog and keep them from relinquishing ownership.  You never know when one article of hope can change lives!
• I also recommend that you join us in the Video Vault.  As with our dog training blog new videos are uploaded each week and can help you with everything from nail trims and just how to do them to leash training, barking and digging!  Watching a video can clear up any question on how-to and you can always go back and review!

The Obedience we All Aspire to!

So, here is my challenge to you.  Join us on Facebook and request an article or video to be shot reviewing a problem you and your dog are having that you don’t see already discussed and I will do my best to tackle your questions!

I write many articles and shoot many videos in advance that are waiting in the wings to be published so, please give me time and keep your eyes posted on your wall to look for the articles you have requested!

Go to Facebook, like our page, and bring on the work load!

Interactive Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Even back then, I use to see some of my clients (in my head) as he was counseling people.  He would ask a question, they would answer but then try to defend their behavior or their choices.

When given advice, they would often answer… “I tried, that doesn’t work, he won’t like it” and time after time they would try to defend their behavior or convince him to see the superiority in their thinking.

It was usually at about that time that he would interject… “So, how’s that workin’ for ya?”

This simple statement reiterates that the flawed behavior is NOT working and therefore there is a need for true and whole hearted change.

If something is working out efficiently, then there is no need for change.  But, when you are having tribulations you need to break down the actions and determine where things are flawed so that you can make a change.

The definition of insanity, as defined by Albert Einstein, is “Doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.”

As a dog trainer, I run into this psychology or “insanity” all of the time.  People want their dog to “change” but they don’t want to exert any effort and they certainly see no need to change their behavior!

I was always happy to realize that it wasn’t just my clients who behave this way; these people were on TV arguing with the renowned doctor and expert that they were seeking advice from!  When I look at it that way, my feathers get a little less ruffled.

I have to admit it is usually people that are dealing with aggression or other severe behavior problems that want to do the most arguing.  I guess because serious behavior problems require the most work and effort, and often take the longest to see suitable results.

The problem is: I don’t have a magic wand.  I can’t come to your house and totally transform your dog for you in one sitting with no effort wielded by you.  It just isn’t possible; in the real non-TV world.

Like any other prevalent behavior that requires strict change; I think sometimes people need to hit their own rock bottom.  The problem with that rock bottom often ends with a bite, exorbitant damage and the ultimate euthanasia of the dog.

I am hoping to save some doggy lives and some people bites by pleading with dog owners who have dogs that are suffering from severe behavior problems to be willing to make some tough changes.

What Can You Do?

• The first step is to admit honestly that you have a problem
• The next step is to determine what you are willing to do about it?

Are you willing to do anything to save your dog?

Or are you unwilling to make proper change?

• The next is to determine WHY or what else is contributing to the ultimate problem
• Change takes total commitment and lots and lots of effort.
• You may need to retry something you gave up on too quickly!
• You have no idea how often I have heard “He doesn’t like it”… or “I put the Gentle Leader on, but he didn’t like it….”  Really?  No dog “likes” it at first; it requires effort to acclimate your dog to it!
• Behavior modification is often a slow and tedious process, and sometimes prevention needs to be inserted into the program by controlling aggressive dogs and keeping bites from having a chance of happening.
• Positive reinforcement, although it may take a longer time build a firm foundation, needs to be used.
• Do not fall prey to the dazzle and dramatization of forceful and barbaric methods of compulsion seen on TV.  Although the behavior may seem to evaporate, I guarantee the TV cameras are not there to see it reappear or see the additional behavior problems it creates!

I recently watched a TV episode where the dog trainer grabbed a trash can lid and a stick and slowly chased the fearful aggressive dog that had been biting people, into a corner and intimidated it until FINALLY it relented in exhaustion (panting and looking frantic) and accepted the trainer’s presence.

Later when the dog growled at the trainer while on leash, he was kicked in the ribs; as the dog trainer explained to rid him of “negative energy”; then he was fashioned with a shock collar and his brain was fried for an additional aggressive behavior.  By the end of the show, of course, the dog had been cured and allowed the trainer (and I am sure we are to assume others) onto his property.

We were shown very little training, actual energy, and follow through that his owners would have to do; as magically he seemed cured of his demons.

But, when the trainer and the camera crews are gone which delivery person or Girl Scout is willing to pick up a sword and shield and chase the unrestrained dog down if he barks in a threatening manner?  And, if they did (not knowing dog behavior like a professional trainer does) wouldn’t they likely be bitten?

Sure, I could chase dogs down and give them a kick to the ribs; but I refuse.  Aggression should not be treated by aggression and not everyone is capable of doing this type of work without getting bitten.  It seems quick and its flashy but it is irresponsible and doesn’t tackle the problem; it usually eventually exacerbates it (as the dog realizes not everyone has follow through or will use aggression) and it creates more problems in the end.  I am surprised more people are not mauled after treating a powerful dog this way!

First I would instruct the owner to fence the yard (preferably wood or other visually impenetrable fence) to safely contain the dog to keep it and people who wander up out of harm’s way.

Dogs, especially aggressive ones, should also be kept inside when owners are gone.  Control cannot be attained while owners are away and total change and breaking the cycle of aggression is imperative!

Behavior modification would be slow but would include the owner desensitizing the dog on leash and giving it something else to do (obedience) when people approach.  The dog would be increasingly rewarded for quiet and nonaggressive behavior.

Visitors would be instructed to toss wonderful treats to the dog when he was quiet and to avoid eye contact.  Speaking to a fearful aggressive dog and petting would be totally avoided in the beginning until it could be determined that both dog and human would be completely safe and acceptant.

Change is a Good Thing with Behavior Modification

Positive reinforcement is not as showy or glamorous to the onlooker but it is so much more effective, humane and safer for everyone!

Ultimately don’t fall for the tricks or the lure of an easy fix!  And, when your dog has a behavior problem commit to true change, don’t just jump to “that doesn’t work or he doesn’t like it” give it a heartfelt try as long as it is not dangerous to anyone involved.   Of course he “doesn’t like it” you are taking him and yourself out of your comfort zones!  This abandonment of comfort and the apprehensiveness it creates is a product of change.

Change isn’t easy, if it was we wouldn’t face it kicking and screaming all of the time…it is uncertain and leads us to feel uneasy, but when you have a sincere problem true change is essential!

“How’s That Workin’ For Ya?” The Need for Change in Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Is Your Dog Unwilling to Share?

A lot of people have dogs that don’t like to share with the other dogs in the household.  Do you have a bully at home?

I think being possessive, resource guarding, or just generally not wanting to share is pretty inherent both with animals and with people.  How often do kids get in trouble for not sharing?

Hoarding, guarding and being possessive of food items can mean the difference between life and death in the wild.  The problem is our dogs aren’t living in the wild.  But, they still may be resistant to the idea of sharing what they consider a high value item.

The first thing to do is to assess how adamant they are about keeping the item away from your other dogs and how aggressive they are willing to be to keep the item.

As always, I am a safety first kinda girl; if someone is going to die or get seriously injured this matter becomes so much more serious and has to be dealt with, with safety in mind.  So let’s discuss highly aggressive dogs first.

Seriously Aggressive Dogs

The first thing to consider is your comfort level.  Although ignoring the problem isn’t going to work in the long run, I certainly wouldn’t recommend giving them a pig’s ear or something equally yummy to assess the situation!

Aggressive dogs need to go on a leash and a gentle leader to give you better control and keep a fight or a bite from happening.  Being off leash is a privilege and if a dog is showing aggression he loses that right!

Next is to introduce a low level toy or treat.  Low level means the lowest level possible to illicit the smallest response.  A toy that the dog barely cares about or a mediocre treat; again do not give a high level treat like a pig’s ear, real baked cow bone, or your dog’s favorite toy this might start severe aggression or a fight.

Dogs that are seriously food aggressive when they are fed, should be fed in their crates to alleviate the problem and keep dogs from fighting.  Sometimes the introduction of the crate makes the aggressor feel safer and therefore lessens his aggressiveness.  In a crate, he knows he does not have to defend his food!

Some dogs are so aggressive they cannot be trusted with great chewies or treats when other dogs are around because they become dangerous; these dogs may need to be put in a kennel or outside alone with their prize.  Occasionally a program of desensitization with them wearing a muzzle (to keep everyone safe) can help.

Only you know your dog, do not push him past his limits into a dangerous zone a veterinary visit to have dogs stitched up after a fight simply isn’t worth it.

And, never try this if your dog is also showing possession aggression or resource guards toward you.  There are easier ways to teach your dog to share with you that limit your chances of being bitten!  A visit to the hospital is also not worth it!

Mildly Aggressive Dogs

Yikes!!!

I stand by the fact that any dog showing aggression should be placed on at least a leash but in most cases also a gentle leader.  Again this just gives you control.  Instead of worrying about a bloodletting like you would with a seriously aggressive resource guarder, a leash still allows you to pluck the dog up and get him out of the situation.

I don’t allow aggression at my house.  My dogs are barely allowed to stiffen their body postures to each other and give each other the stink eye when they have something they don’t want to share.  No growling, snarling, snapping, or biting is allowed.

The ONLY exception to this rule is if I get an “oh so confident” puppy that is pushing his limits with the older dogs that he should be respecting.  In this case I would put the puppy on a leash and teach him some manners by not allowing him to try and steal from his older step-siblings.

At the first sign of any naughtiness or resource guarding I take the offender by the leash and lead him into another room for a brief time out.  If he is adamant about defending his article, he may lose the privilege of having it at all!

He may be crated or put outside alone, but I would not push his buttons by taking the item away and then making him endure watching the other dogs eat their prize.  Likewise I would never take his treat and give it to another; this only proves his point that he needs to guard his things and is liable to make his aggression worse!

Essentially what the dog wants is the “chewy” and so be revoking the privilege of having it for showing signs of resource guarding he learns it is unacceptable to guard items.

The Hoarder

All of my dogs learn to play “musical bones” where one dog tricks another dog to drop his “more appealing” bone and then snatches it away; this is normal.  It seems my dogs always want ONE bone; ultimately not the one that they have but the one that someone else is totally engrossed in and enjoying.

I have often giggled to myself as I watch my oldest dog Nix trick the others by sending up the emergency flag and barking like someone is at the door.  When the other dogs drop their bones and go racing to the front door, Nix is able to pick the bone he prefers.  Time after time the younger ones fall for the same trick!

But, I do not allow one dog to hoard the other bones, they may evenly exchange them around amongst themselves but I don’t accept hoarding.  Some dogs like to gather all of the bones and lay on some while chewing on one.  This is not tolerable!  (Again do not get bit if your dog is showing aggression toward you there are other safer ways, do not push an aggressive dog).  I take the hoarders bones away and redistribute.

I also draw a line with the hoarder that waits until everyone else has consumed their treat and then runs around growling and flaunting the fact that they still have theirs.  This hoarder will lose his bone all together if he shows this behavior, because what he desires is confrontation not the joy of chewing!

You wouldn’t allow your child to hoard all the toys and never share, or threaten other children if they came near… why would you accept this nastiness from your dog?

A Trick to Keep the Crowd Happy?

Arguing is NOT Acceptable!

I always distribute at least one more treat than there are dogs.  I have 3 dogs, so when I dole out rawhides I let each dog pick (from my doggy ruler down the line) and then I put out one more.  This helps with resource guarding because if someone steals someone else’s bone they don’t have to get close to or in the other dog’s face to get back a bone because there is always one laying around.  The other beauty of this model is that the most voracious chewer usually ends up with this bone when the others have had their fill so no one else really wants it!

When the resource is plentiful there is less of a chance your dogs will fight over it!

Dog allow your dog to be a bully!  It is not fair to your other dogs to have to feel like they live on pins and needles.  Aggression is never okay!  None of us wants to be bullied and I bet after a few sessions of losing the prize your dog will learn to control his impulses and resource guarding will be a thing of the past!

That’s MINE! Refusing to Share with the Other Dogs in your Pack is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Aggression is No Laughing Matter!

I have been a professional dog trainer for almost 20 years, and although I sincerely hate confessing to that because it ages me, it is also something that I am very proud of!  I have done many things in my vast career and I have seen even more things, admittedly good and bad.

Sometimes it is difficult to write blogs on dog training, especially dog aggression.  I have to assume a common medium in most of my writing, not only about the dogs but also about the dog owners.   Rarely are my articles geared to the most aggressive or the best behaved dogs because they are at the ends of the spectrum.  Usually I write articles that are geared for the owners and their dogs that are somewhere in the middle.

This article is for those dogs and their owners who are at the peak of the most aggressive end of the spectrum.  If you are afraid of your dog at times or his behaviors in any given situation, there is likely a good reason!  Never deny or refute the feelings of fear, if you do you are liable to end up in the emergency room seeking at the very least stitches and a tetanus shot.

It is difficult if not impossible to gage the aggression of someone’s dog by simply reading a post or hearing information.  The only true way to get a precise impression is to see it with your own eyes.  When I do in home training and behavior modification, I can’t give accurate information until I have met the dog and witnessed the behavior.

The aggression a dog shows can be as small and simple as raising their hackles, or snarling, or growling or it can be as frightening as showing all of the above listed behaviors with lunging and biting.

What one person thinks is a serious display of aggression another may shrug off as normal dog behavior.

The truth is that almost no signs of aggression displayed by dogs are tolerable in normal society.

That being said, I take all reports of aggression very seriously.  Even the smallest signs of aggression can escalate build on itself and lead to more serious and pronounced aggression.

Any Dog Can Bite! Thanks to Doganswers for the Picture

I have often worked with brutal and terrifying dangerous dogs; I have seen many bites, incurred a few and I have seen many successful rehabilitations.  However, rarely have I seen owners who were equipped with the knowledge and abilities to deal with these types of dogs.  And occasionally I have even referred my clients to other professionals, usually veterinary behaviorists, when I feel that my clients were unable or unwilling to heed my advice.

Several years ago I worked with a dentist and his family, when their Great Pyrenees died of old age their family had gotten a white German Shepherd Dog puppy; his behavior was much different and much more dominant than they had ever experienced from their previously beloved Pyrenees.  He was beginning to show some mild signs of aggression to their children, especially their youngest a girl of about 8 years old.

I had been called in and we discussed the seriousness of the behaviors and making the new puppy earn all of his privileges in life and the “nothing in life is free” principles then we set up a training regiment and I had their 8 year old working on clicker training, tricks and feeding the dog and changing their relationship with fun and games.

However, another trainer and a friend of the family suggested a different plan.  He took the dog to his kennel for several weeks for “obedience training and behavior modification”.  When he returned the dog he suggested having the 8 year old lay on the dog for a period of time each day.  Despite my very adamant, vocal rejections and warnings of this program, they continued to force both the dog and child to engage in this very hazardous behavior.

Unfortunately after several days of this the girl was mauled and the dog was eventually euthanized; both cheated out of a normal life and both were unwilling participants in a perilous situation.  Compulsion, corrections, force and pain are NEVER the way to treat aggression.

Aggression is no laughing matter, and even the smallest signs can escalate very rapidly into an uncontrollable dog.

What Can You Do?

As much as I would like to give you personal advice and information, I feel as if it would be negligent to expect to treat a dog with severe aggression without seeing it first hand.  I can, however, give you the guidelines you need to be successful in your training and behavior modification endeavors.

New Aggression may be a Sign of Something Else!

First

If this is a new behavior, take your dog to the vet immediately!  Many conditions can sponsor aggression.  Ear infections, urinary infections, dysplasia, seizures and many more conditions can cause aggressive behavior.   You owe it to your dog to do the proper verifying and make sure he is not in pain or suffering from other physical problems.

Second

If your dog has been thoroughly cleared of a physical cause of aggression, it is time to seek help.  The quality the help you find is in direct relation to how effective the behavior modification will be!

Sometimes what they say is true, “you get what you pay for” so don’t sell yourself or your dog short.  That is not to say, nor to imply, that the most expensive alternative is the best.  But don’t choose the trainer who is new to the field or has little experience.  You don’t want you or your dog to be an experiment.

DO NOT use force or compulsion.  I cannot say that enough!  I have seen and heard about deplorable things done in the name in dog training and expelling aggression.  Don’t try them, no matter how frustrated or angry you are!  Aggression incites and breeds aggression; learn to use your mind to get your dog to do what you want.  If it seems too easy, it probably is!

I almost ALWAYS recommend a veterinary behaviorist.  That is a veterinarian who specializes in dog behavior and behavior modification.  I recognize that you will probably pay a little more for such a service, but I also know that if they think your dog could benefit from medication you are hitting the “two birds with one stone”, so to speak.  I know, too, that no good veterinary behaviorist would recommend things like prong collars, or choking dogs out; vets are going to use proven methods of positive reinforcement and behavior modification with the addition of proven prescription medication if needed.

Third

Be Careful! But find a Kind and Gentle Behaviorist with lots of Experience!

Do not presume to treat severe aggression yourself or deny the work involved.  Understand that any behavior modification process is lengthy.  Be prepared to stick it out and do whatever you have to, to be successful.

Aggressive dogs are often not “re-homeable”.  It is a HUGE liability to re-home a dog, that has bitten or shown signs of aggression.  Even if you place a dog that “doesn’t like children” into a home without children, the odds of him never seeing or being exposed to another child is rare if not impossible.  So what happens if that dog you placed mauls a child and you had previous knowledge of a bite?  You could be in some deep trouble!

There are some tough decisions owners of aggressive dogs face; but I admonish you if you decide to work on the behavior, be willing to make some sincere changes.

Do not deny medication if your vet truly thinks it may help.  So many owners I have encountered were initially unwilling to medicate their dogs for an infinite number of reasons, some reasonable and some irrational; I can attest to you that I have seen the benefit of the administration of medications.

I can also tell you that if I was bi-polar, schizophrenic, or had other mood disorders I would want medication to help me feel better and better control myself and my environment!  Don’t deny your pet something that you would take for yourself or something that can make his struggle easier!

Fourth

Owning an aggressive dog is not only a huge liability it also demands strict adherence and maintenance of your dog and his behaviors.

Only you can keep your dog from biting or showing aggression again.  The safety of your dog and the public is in your hands!  One moment of relaxed behavior or negligence can end in horror.

NO ONE wants to have to meet with the sheriff’s office, animal control or stand in front of a judge and have to try and explain WHY a bite occurred, especially AGAIN.

Fifth

Don’t blame yourself.  The old adage that if only a dog was “raised right” it wouldn’t have shown aggressive behavior is an urban legend.  I have seen distinct and ruthless aggression from puppies as young as 6 weeks.  Sometimes good people get aggressive dogs.

There is hope!  If you are willing to adhere to the rules and the veterinary behavior modification plan, do your homework, and possibly administer medications there is a chance you can control the aggression.  Aggression is usually not “curable” but it can be “containable”.

When Is It Time to Seek Professional Dog Training Help with Aggression? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Don't Allow Your Dog to be a Bully!

I have had a few questions lately from people who need help because one of their dogs does not like to share human time with the other dog/dogs in the home!   A lot of us have more than one companion dog or pet in our homes and it is all about finding a good balance between all of us.

I have 3 dogs and never seem to have less than two, which is just the way I like it!  And, sometimes there are some jealousy issues even in my home!

Some people would argue that dogs don’t have emotions much less complex emotions like jealousy, but having spent almost 20 years training animals I can attest to the fact that they have emotions and complex emotions.

Basic emotions                                                  More Complex Emotions

• Joy                                                             Excitement
• Trust                                                          Shame
• Fear                                                            Frustration
• Surprise                                                       Envy
• Sadness                                                        Worry
• Disgust                                                         Curiosity
• Anger                                                            Sorrow
• Anticipation                                                  Pride

Some might say that one dog is the dominant dog and that is why they are resource guarding the person, it has nothing to do with emotion because dogs don’t have the capability of having much less showing emotion, but I have witnessed dogs show all these emotions and many more!

While it is true that some dogs are immediately defensive and possessive of EVERYTHING they have and don’t want to share anything with the other dog/dogs in the house some dogs only get jealous of their owner’s time and affections.

Obviously the dog with universal possessiveness has many more issues and sometimes is just a bully!  He needs the “nothing in life is free” principles applied!

But, the dog that is just possessive of his owner’s and his/her affections may be feeling a bit slighted whether or not it is warranted.

What Can You Do?

• Make sure that everyone is getting alone time
• Make sure that all of your dogs are getting equal time
• Be the parent or the leader and do not accept aggression between your dogs

Alone Time

The Intimidating "Stank Eye" from my Fury!

I believe that no matter who it is in our life that is important to us; sometimes they deserve our undivided attention.

When I was a child my mother and father would split up my sister and I and spend the day one on one with each of us.  We got to decide what we wanted to do with each parent and where we wanted to go.  This one on one attention with each parent helped us to feel special and therefore not slighted when we all spent family time together or if time was lavished on one of us due to an event or special circumstances.  I recommend all parents do this with their children.  Some of my favorite memories came from those days that it was all about ME even though I loved the family time we all spent together.

Likewise I think that marriages and relationships are strengthened when one on one time can occasionally be spent.  Couples need at least monthly date nights and to carve out quality time daily to spend with each other.  This simple principle can help couples feel less stressed and can keep jealousy and other negative emotions at bay.

I believe that our pets are the same way and deserve some one on one time with their owners.

My husband and I are avid hikers.  Most weekends are spent climbing mountains and geocaching with our dogs.  It is great exercise and I am lucky because when I come home my dogs are EXHAUSTED, and that in itself is priceless!  Unfortunately a few weeks ago was my oldest dog’s last hike.  Nix hiked 2 miles before his old body gave out and I sat with him for an hour as my husband finished the hike.  He was simply unable to continue do to his age, and medication from his meningitis.   Now we are forced to only hike with the youngest two, which does break my heart.

Jealousy and sadness could overcome his world if it wasn’t for the fact that I let him do things that my other dogs don’t get to!  He gets to accompany me on car rides and the occasional slow stroll around the yard.  I let the other two outside, while he gets a massage and vice versa.

In an attempt to train toward competition goals, my other dogs get one on one time training with me each day and I make a point to ensure that everyone gets appropriate snuggly time!

I even make sure the cat and our adopted raccoon get one on one time.  Sometimes it feels like I am pulled in all directions, but to keep the peace and ensure happiness for all I believe they all need to feel special.  And, just to be honest I like spending one on one time with them as well, it helps me develop a deeper relationship and get to know them on another level.  Just like a person may be different without their parents, friends, or their spouse, I get to know my pets as individuals with no barriers.  MAKE TIME!

Equal Time

Although most of you wouldn’t admit it, you may have a favorite!  We are told we shouldn’t have favorite children and likewise we think we shouldn’t have favorite dogs within our family structure but some of us do.  I think it is kind of normal and I will admit that my oldest is my heart and soul and he should be; I have spent the last 11 and a half years with him by my side and we have been through many tragedies and triumphs together!

That doesn’t mean I don’t love my young kids, I certainly do!  But, to them spending all of my time or affection on one dog can cause animosity!  Can you imagine your parents spending all their time with one of your siblings?  Even if you didn’t say something, you would feel slighted and probably hostile to the brother or sister even if it wasn’t their fault!

Although very young puppies and very old dogs require a lot more of our concentrated time, do your best to be equal and fair!  I insist that my dogs earn their privileges at my house; you must earn your right to sit with me or get on the furniture but to be fair I have to give my dogs the opportunities to excel and receive my affection, which requires my time!  Although the time I spend with them may be different (I may spoon with my oldest and train with the younger two), it is about quality for where we are in our relationship and I require respect, nothing at my house is free (until you are at least 11)!

This is the Beginning of a Serious Problem!

No Aggression Allowed!

I am the Mom, Alpha, Ruler or Queen of this house depending on what verbiage and semantics you prefer!   I simply won’t allow blatant aggression under my roof towards the humans, children, or other pets in my home.

Blatant aggression means no outright nasty displays.  My female dog who is about a year and a half now is definitely “on top” after me.  She has this “look” I call the “stank eye” that can stop just about anyone or anything in their tracks.  She is easily able to manipulate the other animals by stiffening her naughty little body or by shooting a look across the room.

I recognize and accept these minor behaviors and allow her to “work her magic” with the rest of the pack.  If I did not allow her to exert her demands on the other dogs to some degree it could make things worse for all of us, because she would feel even more helpless if I took all of her control away.  She is a dominant female; there is absolutely no changing that, so I accept it to a tiny extent.

It is important to be able to recognize these changes as they are the beginning of more drama if you are not careful.

Dogs do not need to hackle, growl, snarl, bark or snap.  A simple look and a change in body posture is all it takes to signal to another dog that they want the behavior to stop.  I also do my best to ensure her status as “bitch royale” meaning I don’t allow the other dogs to test her past her bounds.  I respect her by letting her do things first and not allowing the other dogs to steal her things or muscle up on her.  This keeps tensions lower because the other two see that I respect her next.

However, she is NOT allowed to hackle, growl, snarl, bark, snap or bite at the other two dogs.

Aggression = a loss of privilege!

So if she is being possessive of my time and she growls at the puppy or Nix, she loses the ability to spend time with me in that moment and she may just earn a time out.

If she growls, I would take her calmly by the collar or the leash and put her in another room or outside for a few moments by herself.

She is not a child, so leaving her there to “think about what she did” is not going to be effective.  But denying her access to what she wants, which is me, can be quite effective.  A minute or two is enough to suffice, but it must be immediate at the first sign of aggression.

Blatant Aggression in Unacceptable

Do not wait until there is a biting match and expect to split the dogs up.  They should be safely separated at the first and lowest sign of naughty behavior.  If you know that your dog will growl or escalate, I would reprimand and separate at the first sign of “stank eye” or stiffening!  They are much easier to control in the beginning stage of aggression than waiting until there is about to be an altercation!  Fights can also be somewhat satisfying, so it is important to make sure they never get the satisfaction of taking it that far.

When she comes out, I am not going to exploit or fawn over the other dog to make a point.  In fact, I probably won’t have any contact with the other dog and will just let them go back to normal behavior.  Rubbing it in her face will undoubtedly make it worse, but I will also not keep the other dog from me.  She will not be allowed to instigate or cause more drama or again she will lose a privilege.  If I need to, I will keep a leash on her to make sure everyone is safe.

It is important that you be consistent and figure out what you will and what you won’t put up with and then stick to your guns no matter what!  If you accept even a little growl, it is liable to escalate and soon the behavior will be worse.

If your dog cannot sit on your lap without being aggressive and threatening the other pets or people in your life…perhaps he hasn’t earned the right to be on your lap?  Privileges should be earned and sometimes dogs need to stay on the floor until they can grasp this concept.  This is not to say that you can’t have one on one lap time with this dog, but he may not be able to stay there with the other dogs around until he has figured out that you won’t tolerate aggression or possessive behavior!

If you continue to have problems or resistance from him or her, you may need to back up and start doing daily obedience so he is use to listening to you!

Stick to these principles and you will see a change!

AND, don’t argue!  Don’t say you don’t have time to give all of your dog’s one on one time, don’t tell me you don’t have the time to share your time equally while they are around, and DON’T tell me you are unwilling to keep the offender off of your lap or out of your space if he is showing naughty aggressive behavior.

Change has to start with you and you must be willing to take control and do what you need to keep the peace under your roof, or woof !

Help! My Dog Doesn’t Like to Share My Affections with My Other Dogs! is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Possessive behavior is not cute!

Recently I was out dog training with a middle aged couple that had acquired a lovely, but wild Maltese/Terrier mix.  Admittedly she has many problems some of which include aggression towards the toilet (when it flushes) and vacuum and also the possessive guarding of her human “Mother”.

“Mom” is her main care giver.  She gets up in the morning feeds and waters her, takes her for walks, plays with and trains her.  Although there is an adult son that also lives in the home and her human “Dad” they mostly only interact with her when Mom is gone and they NEVER train with her.

She is definitely spoiled and gets almost everything she wants, from everyone.  When she demands that her humans pet her; they do.  When she wants to play ball, she initiates and insists someone throw it for her; non-compliance will be met with barking and an escalation from nipping to hurtful biting.  When she doesn’t want to be picked up, she flashes her teeth and is hastily left alone.  She has to be tricked to enter her crate when it is time for her owners to work.

Mom makes her listen and obey commands most of the time, but gives in to her “cuteness” and has trouble truly enforcing commands, but no one else even asks her to obey or adhere to any rules.

AND, “Dad” is not allowed to affectionately touch “Mom” in her presence without the threat of significant bodily harm and damage (thank goodness she is not a Rottweiler!).

I had my plate full for sure!  “Princess” was quite displeased to see the emergence of a dog trainer at her door!  We had lots of work to do for sure and Princess had to learn boundaries and adhere to rules, but due to her possessive owner behavior and recent admittance of like behavior out there with many of my readers, I thought it was time to tackle this problem and help you to get on the way to recognizing it and solving it!  Protective behavior which was recently misunderstood in my article Help!  My Dog is Too Protective is usually not possessive behavior.

I once worked with a friend very early in my career (I was 18) who swore animals did not have “human” emotions.  I don’t know whether she was yanking my chain to watch me get fired up about the subject or whether she truly believed that dogs didn’t have emotions.  Unfortunately she is not the only person I have heard make such a ridiculous claim.

I am here to attest to the fact that animals DO DO, DO, DO, DO, have emotions!  Did I make that clear?  Yes, they DO!  What I don’t believe they have is the ability to “punish” or get back at us.  They are not by nature “sneaky” post behavior.  Sneaky, conniving behavior is a human trait.  But that is for another article!

I guarantee that dogs suffer from jealousy! 

Jealousy is a nasty trait!  Wikipedia defines jealousy as a secondary emotion, typically referring to negative thoughts and feelings of insecurity, fear and anxiety over an anticipated loss of something that the “person” (dog) values, particularly in reference to a human connection.  Jealousy often consists of a combination of presenting emotions such as anger, sadness, resentment and disgust.  Not to be confused with envy.

We have all seen and suffered from jealousy to some degree.  It has been observed in infants 5 months and older!  Whether it is a sibling, a stepmother/father, or a friend we have all had these feelings.

When I was born, my sister (who was 3) used to sneak into my crib every night and pinch me as hard as she could until I screamed!  She definitely had some jealousy issues, that thankfully we have worked out now  ha ha!

Dogs, especially those dogs that don’t have siblings or other dogs to compete with, often suffer from jealousy.  This single dog phenomenon sets them up to be a little more selfish and much less apt to “share”; similarly to single child homes.

Although I believe it is most common in single dog homes, it can also happen in homes with multiple dogs but usually the aggression and jealousy and possessiveness is shown toward the other dogs in the family (this would be another article).

The “Princess” phenomenon is very common; the dog usually bonds to one person and simply doesn’t want to share this person or his/her affection with anyone else.  Other people are seen as possible competitors and treated as such when they cross the boundaries set by the dog and ask for affection from “the dog’s” person.

Most often these dogs are spoiled!!  Spoiled dogs like spoiled children are much more demanding and feel much more entitled to whatever they seek.   Whereas the object of the dog’s affection may demand some form of obedience and adherence to some rules, most often the other people in the family or friends do not interact with the dog on an obedience level.   When a person, adult, or parent is only “fun” they are often not respected!

What to Do?

The first thing is to make sure everyone in the family is safe.  These possessive tyrants are often willing to issue a bite and in large dogs these bites can be quite severe!  Never use negative or nasty training techniques or the aggression is liable to escalate!  Always keep the dog on a leash and use lots of positive reinforcement!  This type of training may take time, it is okay for everyone to move slowly in their training to ensure safety.

First the dynamics of all the relationships in the family need to change!  That includes the person that is the object of the dog’s affection!  I have seen people who come to me for help with this problem, but deep down they are delighted that their dog “loves” them so much that they are willing to bite or protect them from anyone.  I can’t help people or their dogs when they are unwilling to make some very drastic changes!  This is not a cute behavior for any dog!

The other people in the family need to be willing to safely step up to a new relationship.  This person, who is always feeling like they may be bitten for showing affection to someone they love can be angry and feel vengeful toward the dog.  I find that sometimes they seek help, just because they love the person in the middle but they detest the dog and are unwilling to make significant changes.  This will not work if everyone is not willing to create new relationships and let the past go!

Positive reinforcement training and having fun is the only way to change naughty behavior

Not only does the person that has been threatened need to bring some obedience and rules to the equation, they also need to be a center of fun, treats, and food for the dog.  Positive reinforcement is the only way to win the hearts of these little or big bullies.

The dog’s life needs to go from centering on “his chosen person” to  centering on the person he has been jealous of.  In the new restructuring of the household this person needs to now take charge of feeding the dog, walking the dog, and generally playing with the dog.  All good things should come from this person and very little interaction should come from the person the dog already loves.

The former object of the dog’s affection needs to take a backseat to the new relationship and let family and friends be the center of the dog’s life.  Although this is difficult for this person, it is essential and I guarantee the dog will still love you!  Sneaking love, snuggling and affection will only undermine the dog’s ability to form a loving relationship with the other person!

I recommend the person who has been threatened by the dog take an obedience class where he/she can take the dog alone to a new environment and begin to shape a new relationship.  Even if the dog has good obedience skills, taking your dog to a class builds a bond of trust and companionship and if done with a good trainer is fun.

I recommend getting these little green monsters (because green is the color of jealousy) off of your furniture.  These dogs do not need to be sitting in the laps or sleeping with those they are guarding; this only makes change more difficult and more dangerous.

Put a leash on your dog and pluck him off of the furniture when he jumps up.  Being on the furniture is a privilege at my house and has to be earned.  If you show good behavior and listen to commands and don’t have aggression or possession issues toward anyone in the house, you can lie on the furniture, if you do have any of those issues…you aren’t allowed.

The person being guarded can tell the dog he doesn’t like the possessive behavior by plucking the dog off or leading it away but should otherwise not get involved in the relationship of the dog and other family member.  It is detrimental to have this person shouting second commands or coming in and making the dog adhere.  When the dog is possessive this person should get up and leave the room.  Possessive behavior=the loss of the person the dog loves or a time out so to speak.

As the first love of the dog’s life steps out and lets the other person begin to form a loving, bond, built on positive reinforcement, obedience, and fun and the dog begins to love this new person it is time to add the positive reinforcement of affection into the scenario.

I do not recommend doing this until the tide of the relationship has definitely changed and is apparent to everyone involved.  Flaunting affection with another person when your dog is being possessive may very well make the behavior much worse and more dangerous!  The dog must first love and listen to both people.

Now put your dog on a leash, so that you can control any naughty behavior and keep everyone safe, and start showing mild forms of affection toward that person.  Pats on the back, holding hands, resting a hand on the person for a short time is mild.  Hugging, kissing or laying on the person may be too much for the dog to handle at first because it can be seen as aggression on one person’s part to the other.

Pair this light affection with clicks and treats for good behavior.  If the dog shows no possessive behavior click and treat or jackpot for a good response.  Watch for any signs of possessive behavior such as stiffening, growling, showing teeth, or even putting himself in between you.  If there are signs of aggression, back up in your training and relationship forming; person number 2 needs to work harder on positive reinforcement training and fun alone with the dog before moving forward.

If the dog accepts this affection between two people readily with no signs of distress you may move on with your canoodling!  Be sure to keep him on a leash and click

An affectionate relationship for everyone is the goal!

and treat!  The dog needs to associate people on people affection with getting really great treats!

As the relationships change and the dog no longer shows ANY form of possession, the original object of affection can again start to show more love, snuggling and cuddling with the dog while making sure rules are adhered to and the dog respects and loves everyone involved.

As always FUN and safety are the most important aspects in making changes in your dog’s life!

Help for Dogs that Control Their Owners Relationships is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

The Gentle Leader can be a Wonderful Tool!

I don’t often condone much less recommend the use of dog training collars because most often these references refer to: choke chains, prong or pinch collars, or even shock collars.  However, I do on occasion recommend the use of The Gentle Leader ™ and similar head halters.

I almost ALWAYS recommend a head halter for dogs that show ANY kind of aggression: dog aggression, human aggression, wheel aggression (wanting to chase scooters, cars, roller skates), and even fear aggression.

A properly fitted head halter gives you the ability to control the offensive body part; the snout and mouth.  Although a dog can still eat, drink, bark and bite with a head halter on, it allows their owners to control their face and snout.

Imagine your dog races, accidentally off leash, towards a dog aggressive dog.  Dog #1 is wearing a gentle leader head halter and his owner is able to pull his face upwards and keep his gnashing teeth from biting your dog, dog #2 is on a choke chain, prong collar, or buckle collar and because of his great range of motion in his neck and face he is able to lash out and deliver a bite despite his owner’s best attempts to keep him from biting your dog.

Although this is not necessarily the dog aggressive dog’s fault (since the other dog was off leash), accidents happen!

Now imagine that you are the owner of the dog aggressive dog; which collar would you prefer?  I would want the ability to control my dog’s snout and mouth in any

Imagine controlling this face!

instance where he might be aggressive or deliver a bite.

People who have never had an aggressive dog think that these dogs should be left at home and never taken out in public or around other people or animals.  However, you cannot work on behavior modification and helping problem dogs if you simply lock them up and never teach them appropriate behavior.

BUT, as the owner of a dog that has aggressive tendencies you want to be in as much control as possible and the idea of your dog showing aggression is usually horrifying for you and fills you with shame.  Good people often get aggressive dogs, or dogs with problems and they have to deal with people who judge and blame them!

My second dog, a female Rottweiler, was excessively dog aggressive for most of her life.  She is the reason I am a dog trainer.  I couldn’t lock her at home and HOPE that her problems would leave and she deserved a shot at a normal life with on-leash walks throughout neighborhoods and parks.

Imagine controlling this face, with the gentle leader on

I began using Gentle Leaders the year that they came out because it gave me control of her mouth in cases of emergency.  She was NEVER allowed to be off leash because I could never trust her around other dogs, so although she was always on a leash sometimes other dogs were not.  And, although she could still bite with the Gentle Leader on, I could usually manage to control her face if another dog raced our way.  Every time I took her outside the house where there could be other dogs, I knew she was a HUGE liability!  The Gentle Leader allowed me to have more control and lessen my fears that there would be an aggressive incident.

This simple device allowed me to keep her safe (from the repercussions of a serious dog fight) and it kept other people’s dogs safe because she never had a chance to bite or attack another dog because I was a dutiful owner!

This early orientation with the Gentle Leader helped solidify its importance while training and working with dogs with aggression.

Like it can help an owner that has problems with dog aggression, it can also give owners of fearful dogs and dogs with a tendency toward human aggression more control by controlling the snout which houses the teeth.  It also tends to keep people from wanting to run up and pet the dog, because some people think it is a muzzle, although it is not.

I have also never trained a Service Dog that was not trained with and acclimated to the Gentle Leader; it simply gives people with limited physical ability more control of large dogs.   When used correctly a 5 year old child could easily walk a Great Dane.

How Does it Work?

Head Halters Keep Your Dog from Wanting to Pull

• Could you imagine putting a choke chain on a horse?  Halters are used on horses to give people more control, the same principle applies to dogs and head halters!
• Not only does it give you more control of the snout and “biting area” of the dog, it also gives the owner increased control over pulling, lunging, and other naughty leash behaviors.
• When your dog pulls and he is wearing the Gentle Leader, pressure is applied BEHIND his head and ears.  Dogs dislike being pulled and when you pull on his collar or leash, he wants to pull back by pulling you forward…the Gentle Leader uses the same principle by placing the “pull” on the back of the head making your dog not want to continue to pull you forward when he feels this pressure.

How to Begin Utilizing This Tool

This is Too Loose! It should be tighter around the back of the head, and resemble more of a Y

Make sure it is sized appropriately!  A halter that is too loose can cause rubbing, abrasions and pain!  Although it may seem too tight, it is crucial to make sure it is tight like the instructions recommend.  This is not a “collar” the control and pulling is not going to the neck, it is focused around the nose that is why having it this tight does not hurt or bother your dog.  A correctly fitted head halter should fit like a “Y”.

DO NOT use a head halter that is not adjustable under the nose piece.  There is another popular, sometimes cheaper head halter that is not adjustable under the snout, and because it cannot be tightened the fabric strap can pull and even run in your dog’s eye.  The ability to adjust the halter under the nose keeps this from happening.

DO NOT keep the snout portion loose enough for your dog to pull off.  Once your dog is successful at slipping his dew claw under and pulling off the Gentle Leader, you are in for an eternal struggle because he knows it can be done!  It is best to keep this knowledge from him!

This process is like acclimating to hard contact lenses, don’t put it on and leave it on for long periods.  You must familiarize your dog to it SLOWLY for this to be successful!

ALL DOGS BUCK, some scream, and others throw horrifying temper tantrums.  These tantrums can be totally normal, since they have never had anything on their face before, just don’t give in by taking it off or you will be setting yourself up for even more drama next time!

The less drama you put up with the first time, the less you should see during subsequent training sessions.

Getting Started

DO NOT USE!! This is NOT adjustable under the snout and can be pulled up into eyes if not careful!

• Get your principles of positive reinforcement and fantastic treats ready!
• Every time you take it out have a click and treat fest!  Your dog should dance with excitement at the sight of his new head halter!
• Hold the snout portion open and make your dog stick his snout in it as you click and treat.  Don’t click it on for now, just click and treat for his nose coming through.
• Next just let it rest on his face and click and treat, putting it on and taking it off for treats.
• After he has no problems with that, it is time to click it in place and treat.  Don’t leave it on for too long and do not apply any pressure.
• Once he has gotten use to it being on; begin putting it on him before meals and any other fun times during the day.   It should be associated with good things.
• Next take him for a walk but DO NOT attach a leash to it yet!  It is the pressure on the back of the head when they pull that is normally the cause of fits and tantrums.   Just allow him to acclimate to the halter without applying any pressure yet.
• Finally once he is thrilled to see it and happy to have it put on and can wear it for short periods, it is time to get him use to the pressure.
• I get a leash with 2 clips;  I clip one end of the leash to his buckle collar and one end of the leash to the head halter.  This way I don’t always have to have pressure or pulling on his head, unless he is pulling me!
• The one problem I see with head halters is that: they don’t go away when the dog is good or makes good decisions; most people continue to pull on the leash or apply that pressure.  Having a leash attached to his regular buckle collar allows you to utilize his buckle collar most of the time and only apply pressure to the head halter when needed.
• This use of two ends of your leash also helps teach him how to behave with just a buckle collar on!

I like the Gentle Leader and similar head halters that are adjustable under the muzzle, I think they can be a marvelous training tool.

If your dog has aggressive tendencies, I think they are essential in providing control and insurance against an incident, possibly for a lifetime.

However, if you are just utilizing this tool because your dog pulls on the leash or you could use more general control, it is my belief that you should remember it is a “training collar” and use it for its purpose to train and teach, not as something to use for a lifetime!

How to Utilize the Gentle Leader and Similar Head Halters in Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Does Your Dog Threaten to Steal a Body Part When Visitors Come?

Let’s be honest, one of the reason people get and like dogs is because they feel more confident and protected by them.  It has been proven that even the bark of a Chihuahua will drive away a burglar.  For most criminals it simply isn’t worth getting involved with someone with a dog.

When I was 18, a requirement of marriage was getting a Rottweiler.  I got 2!  My female Rottie was around 100# and was the sweetest, kindest, doggie soul you could ever meet.  She almost never met a person she didn’t immediately adore.  I use to laugh because if you simply placed a finger on her she was thrilled by the affection.

As I walked her to the park one day, a man jumped out from around a van.  I had NEVER seen her hackle or her show her teeth to a person before that moment and a growl resonated from within her belly.   I was just an 18 year old kid and definitely not a dog trainer yet.

He hastily scurried around his van entered through the passenger side scooted over and his wheels screeched as he tore out of sight.

It still gives me goose bumps to remember that moment.  I don’t think at that time I truly realized the danger I might have been in, but in hindsight I realize that she sensed something sinister that I did not recognize.  She never showed aggression toward another human being for the rest of her life, she was too busy wagging and soliciting affection to everyone else!

I truly believe that even the most social dog would protect his owner in a crisis.  The good news is that there is rarely ever a true crisis to put my theory to the test.

However, many dogs have a very strong protective instinct.  These dogs feel it is their job to keep their owners safe and they take their job very seriously!

The other problem is that countless people admire and promote this behavior.  When the dog is young and first growls or barks at someone not only are they praised, sometimes people actually feed and reward the dog for showing this behavior.

It usually isn’t until this behavior gets out of control and the dog decides EVERYONE is a threat and no one can get close that the person realizes the danger they have put themselves, their dog, and other people in by encouraging this protective instinct.

I once trained a Labrador Mix as a Service Dog. She adored everyone.  She use to finagle her way around at the grocery store to turn toward the closest person and then she would begin to flirt.  Those brown eyes would wink and call out to the person and her tail would wag incessantly until they gave in and asked to pet her.  She was relentless about seeking attention and affection, but I liked that trait because it meant she liked people and enjoyed her work.

Then I placed her with her new owner and within several months she began getting protective.  I was mystified because I had never seen even a hint of a problem.  But, her new mom was easily startled and a bit prejudiced and she would scream when she was startled or caught off guard.

This screaming and fear brought out the protective instinct of the dog and she began to associate certain people and men with her new mom’s fear.  Screaming showed weakness an inability to take care of herself and probably also scared the dog.  Within a short amount of time the dog just decided, in her mind, if she kept all men away from her mom there would be no more drama or fear so she started to get protective.

Part of the reason she never showed this propensity with me is because I am a very dominant and strong willed person, most dogs would think never think I needed them to protect me because they can clearly see I am in control.  I project an image that I can take care of myself.

What Can You Do?

• You need to take this behavior seriously!  If left unattended this behavior usually only gets worse and it can rapidly become a behavioral pattern over time.  Behavioral patterns are often very difficult to break.  So stop this behavior as soon as possible or keep it from ever happening.
• Never praise your dog for barking or growling aggressively at another person
• Always correct your dog, by telling him NO when he shows aggression toward people (My exception is when someone first comes to the door.  My dogs are allowed to bark but must be quiet when I tell them to)
• If he is nervous or unsure of people, use your clicker and make sure meeting new people is fun
• ALWAYS use a leash!  A LEASH = CONTROL and when a dog shows aggression of any kind you need as much control as possible.
• If your dog is protective at home and  you are having people over, ALWAYS leash your dog prior to their arrival
• Take control!  Dogs takeover situations they think you cannot handle.   Show your dog that you don’t need to be protected by being confident and in control at all times.
• Work tirelessly on obedience!  Obedience puts you in control and your dog in the passenger seat.  You need to be able to put your dog in heel position, by your side and in a “Down” position when he meets new people.  This takes control away from him and gives him something to do and preoccupies his mind.
• You also need to work on the other facets of obedience.  A clear leader, Mom or Dad (YOU) makes the subordinate or child accomplish tasks or listen to get the things they want in life.  Rules are crucial to a good parent/child relationship.  Be a kind but firm parent by having your dog listen to you and do things for you around the house; down stays, sit stays, waiting at the door, come when called, heel at your side and anything else you determine necessary.

If Your Dog is Fearful

If your dog is fearful, he requires a bit of a different type of treatment.  Determine if he is simply scared when you both meet a new person.  If his ears are down, or back or his tail is tucked, or he backs up he is probably scared.

• When a dog is scared he needs to have his confidence built.
• You can build his confidence by making sure that every time new people are around he gets lavishly praised and rewarded for good, social behavior.
• Do NOT praise and reward him when he is scared or he will think that is what you want for him to be=scared.
• Instead, back up until he is showing no signs of fear or nervousness and reward him.
• Slowly work your way toward new people by rewarding him for controlled social behavior.
• Calmly and quietly tell him No if he growls, hackles, or shows any kind of aggression.  Do not compound his fears by yelling or aggressively getting in his face.  Just let him know quietly and calmly that, that behavior is not what you want.
• Make sure that you lavishly reward him and praise him by giving him toys and treats only when people come over (as long as he is not possessive).
• Keep him on a leash and give him something else to do when people are over to keep his mind off of his fears.
• Never allow people to pet him when he is scared.  Petting a scared dog can make the feelings and the behavior worse.  If he cannot be calmed down, ask people not to pet him.  This will show him that he can trust you; by forcing him to allow people to touch him, when he doesn’t want to be touched he may learn to growl or show aggression just to keep people away.

I have a dog that is nervous with people, but he has never shown possession aggression of his toys or treats.  When I have people over, I put him on a leash, keep him close to me in heel position and in a down as I welcome them and tell them to enter.  He lies down at my feet and chews a special peanut butter filled bone when people come to visit.

This positive interaction of people=a special treat helps him to look forward to visits from other people.  Instead of getting nervous or aggressive when people come over, he is excited because he knows if he shows appropriate behavior he will get his bone!

I never force him to interact with someone if he doesn’t want to, however I do insist if he is nervous or unsure of a person that he lay at my feet on leash the whole time the person is in my home!

Good luck and try to keep this fun but take the control of your relationship back by letting your dog know you are in charge of who you socialize with!

My best advice is never to let your dog show these behaviors!  Trust me, when or if you should ever need him to truly protect you he will undoubtedly be there for you in your crisis!

Help! My Dog is Too Protective is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog